Encapsulating plant ingredients for dermocosmetic application: an updated review of delivery systems and characterization techniques

Abstract

Today, there is a rising demand and ongoing search for novel plant-derived phytochemicals in the cosmetic market owing to the growing consumer expectations worldwide for green and natural health products. Various plant ingredients, including polyphenols, oils, volatile oils, vitamins and other herbal extracts, have been extensively used in herbal cosmetics. Recent advances in encapsulation technologies have greatly improved their chemical stability, biocompatibility, skin permeability and dermocosmetic efficiency when applied topically. This comprehensive review summarizes the up-to-date information on encapsulated plant ingredients tailored for dermocosmetic application with a focus on the development of novel delivery systems. An overview of the commonly used techniques for carrier characterization, performance-related properties and toxicological evaluation is also included, which might provide guidance for researchers to select or develop appropriate assay systems. PolyphenolsPolyphenols are secondary metabolites in plants, and the presence of the array of phenolic hydroxyl groups makes them potent free radical scavengers and antioxidants, which are favoured in antiageing cosmetics [1]. Encapsulation techniques are primarily employed to stabilize the easily reducible polyphenolic compounds during storage and processing, thereby enabling their cosmetic/ pharmaceutical uses. A good example is quercetin, a flavonoid from Sophora japonica L. with a pronounced antioxidative and anti-inflammatory activity but with poor water solubility and low skin

Leflunomide Sustained Skin Delivery Based on Sulfobetaine-Modified Chitosan Nanoparticles Embedded in Biodegradable Polyesters Films

“…Several biodegradable polymers (or copolymers) have been proposed as drug delivery matrices for the production of drug-loaded skin patches, including poly(amino acids), poly(orthoesters), poly(alkyl-a-cyano acrylates), poly (acrylamides), and poly(esters) [41][42][43][44]. Among them, poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA) is a GRAS-listed and pharmacopoeiaapproved, biodegradable and biocompatible aliphatic polyester, which has shown significant advantages in the preparation of thin-film patches.…”

High Voltage Electrical Discharges as an Alternative Extraction Process of Phenolic and Volatile Compounds from Wild Thyme (Thymus serpyllum L.): In Silico and Experimental Approaches for Solubility Assessment

“…Obtained plant extracts could be used for functional food production, but also in other spheres of food industry, as colorants, preservatives and other different kind of additives [ 22 , 23 ]. Furthermore, plant extracts could be further preserved by encapsulation methods for controlled release of BACs [ 24 ] in food industry [ 25 ], but in other industries as well, such as cosmetics [ 26 ] or agriculture [ 27 ], and in various fields of pharmaceutical industry and medicine due to plants’ natural biological properties [ 28 , 29 ].…”

Extraction, Characterization and Incorporation of Hypericum scruglii Extract in Ad Hoc Formulated Phospholipid Vesicles Designed for the Treatment of Skin Diseases Connected with Oxidative Stress

“…Accordingly, for the first time in this study, the effectiveness of the H. scruglii extract was demonstrated and improved by its loading in phospholipid vesicles. Indeed, in previous studies, only hypericin was loaded into the liposomes and different complexes were formulated for other aims [ 60 , 61 ], while different kinds of liposomes and phospholipid vesicles have been designed and tested, aimed at improving the efficacy of plant extracts [ 62 , 63 ]. The results underlined that the composition of the vesicles and the addition of specific additives can positively affect the effectiveness of the payloads, even if for each bioactive or phytocomplex, an ad hoc formulation is required [ 35 , 64 , 65 ].…”