Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) is a frequently used anionic detergent, and proteins are among the widely used minor ingredients in cosmetic products. Proteins may enhance the detergent functions and protect human skin from irritation caused by detergents. Soy protein hydrolysates (SPH) were prepared by modifying soy protein (SP) with papain. Varying concentrations of SP or SPH were mixed with various concentrations of SDS at different pH values to determine: (i) molecular characteristics, degree of hydrolysis (DH), and surface hydrophobicity (S 0 ) of SP and SPH; (ii) the effect of SDS concentrations on the S 0 of SP; (iii) the storage stabilities of oil-in-water emulsions formed by SDS, SP, SPH, SP-SDS, and SPH-SDS; and (iv) the effect of protein concentration (0.01 to 1.5%), DH (1.2 to 12.5%), and pH (3.0, 5.0, 7.0, and 9.0) on storage stabilities of emulsions formed by SP-SDS or SPH-SDS. An increase in emulsion stability (ES) with increasing protein concentration was observed. The ES values of emulsions formed by SPH-SDS complexes were significantly higher than those formed by SP-SDS at pH 7.0 and 9.0. The ES of emulsions formed by the complexes were low at pH 5.0 and increased with increasing pH. At pH 3.0 the emulsions formed by SP-SDS at 1 to 1.5% protein concentration and by SPH-SDS at 1.5% protein concentration were very stable. The results indicate that at least one-half of SDS content can be replaced by SP or SPH while maintaining emulsion stability. JSD 1, 387-392 (1998).KEY WORDS: Degree of hydrolysis, pH, protein concentration, protein hydrolysate, soy protein-SDS complex, storage stability of emulsion, surface hydrophobicity.The demand for natural personal-care products is increasing. Natural cosmetic ingredients have better biodegradability than synthetic products and provide good performance (1,2). Proteins and their derivatives are among the most widely used minor ingredients in cosmetic products (3). Collagen, a protein from animals, after many years of successful use in many different cosmetics, has achieved a connotation of quality and performance with the consumer (4). However, concern about certain communicable diseases such as the so-called mad cow disease and increasing support for animal rights have increased demand for plant sources of natural cosmetic ingredients (1,2,4,5). Native proteins with low water solubility and low hydrophobicity are not suitable for water-based cosmetic formulations. Protein hydrolysates have been shown to have higher water solubility, surface hydrophobicity, and emulsifying and foaming properties. However, fragmentation of such proteins into shorter peptides lowers their ability to protect the skin surfactant against irritation (3,6).Basic functions of detergents are to clean, disperse, emulsify, foam, and penetrate. However, detergents create increased dermatological problems, such as skin redness, roughness, and irritation. Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), an anionic detergent frequently used in cosmetic products, can electrostatically and nonpolarly interact wit...