Efficacy and safety of 5% glycolic acid‐based Gel essence in the treatment of mild to moderate acne

Abstract

The efficacy and safety of commercial low‐concentration glycolic acid products on acne were evaluated by recruiting volunteers accompanying mild to moderate acne of different ages and genders, which is a clinical practice for acne. We recruited a total of 30 volunteers according to the inclusion criteria, conducting clinical evaluation and skin physiological index testing, VISIA skin analysis, distributing products, and informing the trial method. Clinical testing and assessment will be carried out in weeks 0, 1, 2, and 4. 27 acne volunteers finished the entire trial. After 4 weeks of using low‐concentration glycolic acid products, most subjects experienced a significant improvement in their skin lesions and the GAGS score. At the same time, the VISIA test showed that the subjects had an obvious amelioration in facial porphyrins, which was statistically significant, and there was a slight improvement in residual spots and erythema. The skin physiological indexes showed that the skin hydration value increased from 236.2 ± 98.05 to 278.2 ± 90.26 after 14 days. At the end of the test, the skin hydration value dropped to 234.6 ± 81.88. Regarding the melanin and erythema, the value decreased in the 4th week significantly. Repeated use of 5% low‐concentration glycolic acid improves the appearance and chromaticity of the treatment site. It increases the brightness L* and reduces the redness a*. This study shows that low concentrations of glycolic acids have a good effect on the treatment of mild to moderate acne. It may pay the way to carry out further large‐scale clinical research.

A practical guide to over‐the‐counter treatments for hyperpigmentation

“…Tyrosinase inhibitor 8,9 Paradoxical darkening of skin at higher concentrations (either secondary to arbutin acting as a substrate for tyrosinase or reducing melanin release from melanocytes leading to accumulation inside cells) and local skin irritation [10][11][12][13] Azelaic acid Inhibits tyrosinase, reduces mitochondrial oxidoreductase and decreases free radical formation 14,15 Erythema, peeling, burning, irritation and pruritus 14,15 Bakuchiol Unclear; possibly induces retinol-like regulation of gene expression and inhibits melanogenesis in vitro 16,17 Redness and scaling [16][17][18] Cysteamine Hypothesized to inhibit tyrosinase and peroxidase, which decreases melanin synthesis and increases intracellular glutathione, shifting production of darker pigmented eumelanin toward the lighter pheomelanin 19 Mild erythema, itching, desquamation/dryness and burning 19,20 Glycolic acid Accelerating desquamation and removing excess epidermal pigmentation; in vitro studies also suggest a role of direct tyrosinase inhibition 21,22 Mild irritation (erythema, scaling and dryness) [22][23][24][25] Hydroquinone Tyrosinase inhibitor (blocks melanin production) 26 Irritation, exogenous ochronosis (paradoxical blue-grey hyperpigmentation of skin), colloid milium, contact dermatitis and leukoderma 26,27 Kojic acid Capture of the copper ion in the active site of tyrosinase, preventing activation of tyrosinase and thereby melanin production 28,29 Redness, irritation and desquamation [29][30][31] Licorice extracts Anti-inflammatory effects, reduces UV-induced erythema and inhibits melanosomes [32][33]…”

“…In addition to photoaging, glycolic acid has been used to treat acne. In an investigation of 5% glycolic acid gel for treatment of mild to moderate acne, results demonstrated improvement of comedonal and inflammatory lesions and decreased overall melanin after only 4 weeks of treatment 25 . In patients with hyperpigmentation and concomitant acne or photoaging, glycolic acid products can be a useful addition to their daily skin routine.…”

Inflammatory response: The target for treating hyperpigmentation during the repair of a burn wound

“…Superficial peeling agents contain glycolic acid (GA), salicylic acid (SA), trichloroacetic acid (TCA), and tretinoin. In a study, repeated use of 5% GA improved brightness and reduced redness with respect to the melanin and erythema in the fourth week ( 121 ). SA modifies skin indices, such as melanin, pores, and texture; this alteration is also enhanced by oral administration of isotretinoin ( 122 ).…”