Effects of reef morphology variations on wave processes over fringing reefs

Yao, Yu; Zhang, Qiming; Chen, Songgui; Tang, Zhengjiang

doi:10.1016/j.apor.2018.10.021

Cited by 38 publications

(17 citation statements)

References 41 publications

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“…Once calibrated, the phase‐resolving wave model SWASH is able to reproduce the cross‐reef hydrodynamics, including wave attenuation, mean water level, and current. Such type of models, or their Boussinesq‐based counterparts (Yao et al, ), appear as useful tools to anticipate the combined effects of global reef degradation and sea level rise, which are major threats for low‐lying areas. The present results confirm the overall validity of the depth‐averaged momentum balance when aiming to predict wave setup and wave‐induced transport, keeping in mind the importance of depth dependency and spatial variation of bottom friction in such complex and rough environments.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Momentum Balance Across a Barrier Reef

et al. 2020

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This paper reports on a combined experimental and numerical study dedicated to barrier reefs hydrodynamics. A network of pressure sensors and velocity profilers has been deployed for more than 2 months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The primary aim of the study is to assess the relevance of the classical depth‐averaged momentum balance in such a complex and poorly documented environment. The combined analysis of experimental and numerical measurements reveals a specific hydrodynamic behavior contrasting with sandy beaches and fringing reefs. The cross‐reef current induced by wave breaking over the barrier reef plays an important role in the momentum budget, in particular through friction processes. The hydrodynamic behavior over the barrier reef is thus characterized by the progressive transition from a nearly classical beach type behavior on the forereef, where the gradient of radiation stress is balanced by a barotropic pressure gradient associated to the wave setup, to an open‐channel type regime, dominated by frictional head loss. The reef top wave setup shows a clear depth dependency mainly attributed to the forereef curvature. During extreme wave events, the measurements tend to indicate a transition toward a critical hydraulic regime above the reef top. The numerical simulations, involving a non‐hydrostatic wave‐resolving model coupled to a K−ϵ turbulence model, highlight the vertical structure of the flow. Over the reef flat, a classical log‐layer profile is observed, in agreement with measurements, while above the forereef an anticlockwise circulation develops under the breaking zone.

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Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Momentum Balance Across a Barrier Reef

et al. 2020

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“…Another important need is to establish a relationship between small-scale reef geometry and friction parameters estimated for hydrodynamical measurements (friction drag coefficient, roughness height). Such roughness parameters can be estimated from velocity and turbulence measurements (Pomeroy et al, 2017;Reidenbach et al, 2006), and are then introduced into circulation and wave numerical models (Filipot and Cheung, 2012;Hoeke et al, 2013;Pomeroy et al, 2012;Van Dongeren et al, 2013;Buckley et al, 2014;Zijlema, 2012;Buckley et al, 2014;Lashley et al, 2018;Sous et al, 2019;Yao et al, 2019). Simple parameterizations based on geometrical features such as the average colony height have been proposed (McDonald et al, 2006;Rosman and Hench, 2011).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

On the small‐scale fractal geometrical structure of a living coral reef barrier

Sous

Bouchette

Doerflinger

et al. 2020

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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Summary The topographical complexity of coral reefs is of primary importance for a number of hydrodynamical and ecological processes. The present study is based on a series of high‐resolution seabottom elevation measurements along the Maupiti Barrier Reef, French Polynesia. Several statistical metrics and spectral analysis are used to characterize the spatial evolution of the coral geometrical structure from the reef crest to the backreef. A consistent fractal‐like power law exists in the spectral density of bottom elevation for length scales between 0.1 and 7 m, while at larger scale, the reef structure shows a different pattern. Such a fine characterization of the reef geometrical structure provides key elements to reconstruct the reef history, to improve the representation of reef roughness in hydrodynamical models and to monitor the evolution of coral reef systems in the context of global change. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

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“…This effect is not represented by the present numerical model and would require more sophisticated approaches. However, following existing field [46] and laboratory [47] observations of moderate wave reflection on similar systems, one can expect that the effect on the overall dynamics remains small.…”

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confidence: 85%

A Numerical Assessment of Artificial Reef Pass Wave-Induced Currents as a Renewable Energy Source

Sous

2019

JMSE

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The present study aims to estimate the potential of artificial reef pass as a renewable source of energy. The overall idea is to mimic the functioning of natural reef–lagoon systems in which the cross-reef pressure gradient induced by wave breaking is able to drive an outward flow through the pass. The objective is to estimate the feasibility of a positive energy breakwater, combining the usual wave-sheltering function of immersed breakwater together with the production of renewable energy by turbines. A series of numerical simulations is performed using a depth-averaged model to understand the effects of each geometrical reef parameter on the reef–lagoon hydrodynamics. A synthetic wave and tide climate is then imposed to estimate the potential power production. An annual production between 50 and 70 MWh is estimated.

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Effects of reef morphology variations on wave processes over fringing reefs

Cited by 38 publications

References 41 publications

Momentum Balance Across a Barrier Reef

Momentum Balance Across a Barrier Reef

On the small‐scale fractal geometrical structure of a living coral reef barrier

A Numerical Assessment of Artificial Reef Pass Wave-Induced Currents as a Renewable Energy Source

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