Effect of molecular structure of eco-friendly glycolipid biosurfactants on the adsorption of hair-care conditioning polymers

Physicochemical Aspects of the Performance of Hair-Conditioning Formulations

“…Nowadays, different theoretical approaches, mainly based on the use of mean-field selfconsistent calculations, have been used for the in silico prediction of the performance of different model conditioning formulations [11,[71][72][73][74]. The results obtained following the abovementioned theoretical approaches are generally in good accordance with the experimental findings [7,45,46].…”

“…The latter is critical for distinguishing fibers with different health levels [69]. The use of electron microscopies, even though more complex to implement, can help the evaluation of the performance of cosmetic formulations, as was recently shown by Fernández-Peña et al [7] (see Figure 4).…”

“…These surfactants are considered to be the most efficient in the cleaning of sebum fats and dirt in general. However, an excessive deposition of this surfactant onto the surface of the hair fibers during the washing process may increase the number of negative charges, which would be detrimental for the conditioning process as result of the increase in the friction [7,[41][42][43][44][45][46]. • Cationic surfactants.…”

“…The most common among this type of surfactants are those based on ethylene oxides, the so-called ethoxylated surfactants. Another important class of nonionic surfactants are "multihydroxy" molecules, such as glycol esters, glycerol and polyglycerol esters, glycosides and polyglycosides and sucrose esters [7,46]. • Zwitterionic surfactants.…”

“…Among the currently used approaches for hair-conditioning, those involving the interaction of complex mixtures, including macromolecules (synthetic polymers, polyelectrolytes, proteins, etc.) and surfactants, with the surface of the hair fibers are probably the most commonly exploited [6][7][8]. This type of conditioning procedure involves the deposition of the formulations, containing mainly surfactants, The cuticle is the substrate of most of the cosmetic treatments, with each cuticle cell being divided into several sublamellar layers, as shown in Figure 2 (from the outer part to the inner region): F-layer, epicuticle, layer A, layer B or exocuticle, endocuticle and complex cell membrane (CMC) [25,30].…”