Dynamics of wave-induced currents over an alongshore non-uniform multiple-barred sandy beach on the Aquitanian Coast, France

Castelle, Bruno; Bonneton, Philippe; Sénéchal, Nadia; Dupuis, Hélène; Butel, Rémi; Michel, Denis

doi:10.1016/j.csr.2005.08.027

Cited by 66 publications

(61 citation statements)

References 35 publications

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“…TVB is an interesting and challenging study site because of its complexity. Many data sets were collected at TVB over the last decade (Senechal et al , 2002(Senechal et al , 2004Castelle et al 2006;Masselink et al 2008), but none covered detailed observations of hydrodynamic processes and morphological response over a broad range of scales and conditions. The observations were also limited to the intertidal morphology with no continuous observations of the subtidal morphology.…”

Section: Truc Vert Beach Hydrodynamic Settingmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…rip channels), a single cross-shore profile does not suffice. Field examples are provided by morphologic control of surf zone circulation (amongst others Castelle et al 2006;MacMahan et al 2008;Bruneau et al 2009). Holman and Bowen (1984), Bowen (1996, 1998) and (amongst others) provide examples of morphologic control of infragravity wave processes.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Tides can modulate hydrodynamic processes such as surf zone circulation (Thornton and Kim 1993;Castelle et al 2006;Bruneau et al 2009) and wave breaking and control surf and swash bar dynamics (Reichmüth and Anthony 2007). Tides (particularly in meso-to megatidal environments) are also a key parameter in dune erosion.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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The ECORS-Truc Vert’08 nearshore field experiment: presentation of a three-dimensional morphologic system in a macro-tidal environment during consecutive extreme storm conditions

et al. 2011

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A large multi-institutional nearshore field experiment was conducted at Truc Vert, on the Atlantic coast of France in early 2008. Truc Vert'08 was designed to measure beach change on a long, sandy stretch of coast without engineering works with emphasis on large winter waves (offshore significant wave height up to 8 m), a threedimensional morphology, and macro-tidal conditions. Nearshore wave transformation, circulation and bathymetric changes involve coupled processes at many spatial and temporal scales thus implying the need to improve our knowledge for the full spectrum of scales to achieve a comprehensive view of the natural system. This experiment is unique when compared with existing experiments because of the simultaneous investigation of processes at different Dynamics (2011) 61:2073-2098 DOI 10.1007 scales, both spatially (from ripples to sand banks) and temporally (from single swash events to several spring-neap tidal cycles, including a major storm event). The purpose of this paper is to provide background information on the experiment by providing detailed presentation of the instrument layout and snapshots of preliminary results.

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Section: Truc Vert Beach Hydrodynamic Settingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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The ECORS-Truc Vert’08 nearshore field experiment: presentation of a three-dimensional morphologic system in a macro-tidal environment during consecutive extreme storm conditions

et al. 2011

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“…7 illustrates the relationship between water level in the rip neck and the magnitude of the mean cross-shore current during the falling stage of the tide at Bennett's Beach. A positive relationship existed between rip current speed and water level (see also Castelle and Bonneton [14], Castelle et al [15]). Average suspended sediment transport rates by the mean current (Mean), infragravity (IG) and gravity (G) waves recorded at three elevations in the rip neck (P1) on Feb. 19 th (left hand panels)and 21 st (right hand panels).…”

Section: Mean Current Speed In the Rip Neck And Tidal Levelsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sediment flux in a rip channel on a barred intermediate beach under low wave energy

Greenwood

Brander

Joseph

et al. 2009

WIT Transactions on Ecology and the Environment

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The classic model of water and sediment flux in barred surf zones is a net flux landward across a nearshore bar, alongshore in a feeder channel, and offshore in narrow jet-like flows in a rip neck cut through the bar; this circulation is frequently modulated by the tide, even under micro-tidal conditions. Water levels, waves, currents and suspended sediment transport (SST) were recorded at elevations of z = 0.13, 0.26 and 0.39 m in a rip neck on an intermediate bar-rip beach at a micro-tidal site, Bennett's Beach, NSW, Australia. Measurements revealed SST was driven by quasi-steady rip currents and by gravity and infragravity waves. The balance between these components determined the magnitude and direction of the overall net SST. Tentative conclusions are that:(i) the direction of the overall net SST rate in the rip neck was dominated, as expected, by offshore-directed mean cross-shore currents, especially around high tide; at this time the SST rates due to gravity and infragravity waves were relatively small and somewhat variable in direction.(ii) as the tide fell, relatively large SST rates were directed onshore by shoaling gravity waves propagating through the neck, which opposed and even exceeded the rip current transport. At mid-tide, the transport by infragravity waves complemented the gravity waves such that the overall net flux of suspended sediment was directed onshore into the rip cell at the two lowest elevations.(iii) whenever the SST by the rip current and by shoaling waves was close to a balance, it was the infragravity waves that controlled the rate and direction of the overall net suspended sediment flux.

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“…Pour de tels systèmes, des études hydrodynamiques de terrain ont été menées sur la côte aquitaine en milieu méso-tidal (FROIDEFOND et al, 1990 ;CASTELLE et al, 2006b) mais aucune mesure n'a été réalisée en milieu microtidal.…”

Section: Introductionunclassified

Caractérisation hydrodynamique sur un littoral à barres festonnées du golfe du Lion (Leucate, France) : mesures in situ et modélisation

Ferrer¹,

Bujan²,

Certain³

et al. 2008

Xèmes Journées, Sophia Antipolis

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Résumé :L'objet de cette communication est la caractérisation hydrodynamique d'un système double de barres festonnées en milieu microtidal. Pour comprendre l'évolution du littoral de Leucate-Plage (Languedoc-Roussillon, France), une campagne de mesures hydrodynamiques in-situ a été réalisée, puis complétée par une étude à l'aide du modèle numérique Quasi-3D SHORECIRC de la houle et des courants dans des conditions plus dynamiques non observées. Les mesures insitu ont permis de réaliser des cartes de circulation hydrodynamique. Les données modélisées donnent des résultats proches de la réalité en terme d'intensité dans la zone de déferlement, en termes de direction et d'intensité dans la zone de shoaling. Abstract :This paper deals with the hydrodynamic study of a microtidal double crescentic bars system. To understand the coastal evolution of Leucate-Plage (LanguedocRoussillon, France), a hydrodynamic survey has been realized, added to numerical studies with Q-3D SHORECIRC model for more dynamic unobserved conditions. Hydrodynamic maps with observed data have been produced. The numeric hydrodynamic maps show good analogies in the shoaling zone but some difference in the surf zone.Mots clés : barres en festons, microtidal, hydrodynamique, SHORECIRC.

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Dynamics of wave-induced currents over an alongshore non-uniform multiple-barred sandy beach on the Aquitanian Coast, France

Cited by 66 publications

References 35 publications

The ECORS-Truc Vert’08 nearshore field experiment: presentation of a three-dimensional morphologic system in a macro-tidal environment during consecutive extreme storm conditions

The ECORS-Truc Vert’08 nearshore field experiment: presentation of a three-dimensional morphologic system in a macro-tidal environment during consecutive extreme storm conditions

Sediment flux in a rip channel on a barred intermediate beach under low wave energy

Caractérisation hydrodynamique sur un littoral à barres festonnées du golfe du Lion (Leucate, France) : mesures in situ et modélisation

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