Dynamics between market categories: A study of the (in) visibility of the plus-size fashion market

Abstract

By studying fashion market, this research analyzes domination stakes existing between two market categories: the primary market of mainstream fashion and the secondary market of plus size fashion. It observes dynamics based on practices and material tools which create symbolic and physical (in)visibility of market categories. This study opens up new perspectives in our efforts to understand market dynamics. First, it shows that categorisation is not only a matter of representations, discourses or social interactions, but also involves material initiatives. Materiality emerges as a tool of visibility and invisibility. Second, this study reveals the stakes of social visibility. Behind physical invisibility (not being seen, being hidden, …) lies social invisibility (not existing socially), which explains the feelings of stigmatization and exclusion among curvaceous women.

Le rôle des dynamiques conjointes dans l’évolution des catégories de marchés alternatives. Une approche sociohistorique des musiques indépendantes

“…Whilst our study confirms that alternative categories emerge and evolve according to a critique of a dominant category (Blanchet, 2017;Dion & Tachet, 2020), it also reveals that these alternative categories are subject to internal reinterpretations. They act as spaces of constant symbolic, discursive and material renegotiation and tension, within which different representations coexist and sometimes clash.…”

“…Conflict and tension within an existing category can lead to its reinterpretation when new representations come into play (Negro et al, 2011). Other research has explored the external dynamics between two categories and the power relations between them (Blanchet, 2017;Dion & Tachet, 2020;Rao et al, 2005). Blanchet (2017), for instance, revealed the role of criticism in the emergence of new categories, showing that the emergence of the ethical fashion category is based on criticism of an existing categorical system (that of conventional fashion) and on the construction of a new system of representations.…”

“…Blanchet (2017), for instance, revealed the role of criticism in the emergence of new categories, showing that the emergence of the ethical fashion category is based on criticism of an existing categorical system (that of conventional fashion) and on the construction of a new system of representations. Dion and Tachet (2020), on the other hand, looked at the interactions between two market categories: the mainstream fashion market and the alternative plus-size market. These studies show, amongst other things, that the definition of category boundaries is not just linked to representations but also to the material devices present in the two market categories.…”

“…By focusing either on internal dynamics (Delmestri & Greenwood, 2016;Gollnhofer & Bhatnagar, 2021;Negro et al, 2011) or on external dynamics (Dion & Tachet, 2020;Pedeliento et al, 2019), these studies nonetheless fail to explore the joint action of the two types of dynamics that shape alternative market categories and determine their emergence and evolution, namely, external dynamics linked to boundary-work and power relations with the dominant category and internal dynamics linked to interpretative and symbolic tensions within the alternative category.…”

“…It is these new categorisation processes that are the focus of this paper. We approach them from the study of alternative categories, namely, fuzzy categories whose boundary instability is characterised by a construction that is contrary to a dominant category (Blanchet, 2017;Dion & Tachet, 2020). Indeed, the members of these alternative market categories must regularly conduct identity work internally, whilst constructing external boundaries in contrast to a dominant category (Siltaoja et al, 2020).…”