Abstract:The Authors present some remarkable experimental measurements of velocities and accelerations beneath a breaking wave. As a theoretical model of this process, a regular wave theory-such as the stream function theory used in the Paper-is a poor substitute for a time-dependent solution which reproduces the unsteady nature of the flow. As the Authors note, however, it has the advantages of familiarity and relative simplicity.42. In modelling the flow beneath a breaking wave, presumably the best that can be done w… Show more
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