Directional spectra of wind-generated ocean waves

Donelan, Mark A.; Hamilton, J. H.; Hui, W. H.

doi:10.1098/rsta.1985.0054

Cited by 840 publications

(568 citation statements)

References 51 publications

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“…This spectrum agrees with many experimental observations (Toba 1972, Kahma 1981, Leykin and Rozenberg 1984, Donelan et al 1985, Hwang et al 2000. In addition, Zakharov (2002) was able to reproduce known growth curves of wave integral properties as analytical solutions on the basis of the theory of weak turbulence.…”

Section: Ds Ssupporting

confidence: 76%

Wave modelling – The state of the art

Cavaleri¹,

Alves²,

Ardhuin³

et al. 2007

Progress in Oceanography

454

177

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This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered.The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, non-linear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, non-linear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments. Keywords

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Section: Ds Ssupporting

confidence: 76%

Wave modelling – The state of the art

Cavaleri¹,

Alves²,

Ardhuin³

et al. 2007

Progress in Oceanography

454

177

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…In order to separate S( f ) into wind sea and swell, a cut-off frequency f c was setup as f c = 0.83g/2pU 10 for fully developed wind seas [Donelan et al, 1985], and f c = 0.7f p for fetch limited wind seas, where f p = 13.7gX À0.27 /2pU 10 is the peak frequency of fetch-limited wind seas [Kahma and Calkoen, 1996], and X = gX/U 10 2 is the dimensionless fetch. Frequencies higher than f c were considered as wind sea and those below f c as swell.…”

Section: Methods and Datamentioning

confidence: 99%

Wind stress in the presence of swell under moderate to strong wind conditions

et al. 2009

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[1] Wind stress is a key parameter for oceanic and atmospheric modeling, forecasting, and hydrodynamic studies. It is generally accepted that wind stress depends on the sea state. In particular, it has been shown that the presence of swell can modify both magnitude and direction of the wind stress. The presence of swell enhances momentum flux when swell propagates opposite to the wind direction and reduces it when it travels along the wind direction. However, those conclusions are mainly based on data acquired in low wind speed conditions and it is not clear to what extent an effect of swell persists at higher winds. Here simultaneous measurements of wind stress and waves, carried out in an area characterized by the occurrence of strong offshore winds with counter long-period swell, are presented and analyzed. The observations indicate that swell causes substantial changes to the wind stress at all observed wind conditions, including wind speeds as high as 20 ms À1 . It is believed that in low wind conditions swell increases drag by directly interacting with the air flow, whereas at higher winds, swell reduces drag by modifying the wind-sea-associated roughness.Citation: García-Nava, H., F. J. Ocampo-Torres, P. Osuna, and M. A. Donelan (2009), Wind stress in the presence of swell under moderate to strong wind conditions,

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“…The issue is addressed by insertion of an intermediate function into the spectrum that approximately fits to observations (e.g. Leykin and Rozenberg, 1984;Donelan et al, 1985;Jähne and Riemer, 1990). All wave profiles under consideration are 600 m long with a horizontal resolution dx of 0.1 mm.…”

Section: Description Of the Sea Surfacementioning

confidence: 99%

On the influence of wind and waves on underwater irradiance fluctuations

Hieronymi

Macke

2012

Ocean Sci.

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Abstract. The influence of various wind and wave conditions on the variability of downwelling irradiance E d (490 nm) in water is subject of this study. The work is based on a two-dimensional Monte Carlo radiative transfer model with high spatial resolution. The model assumes conditions that are ideal for wave focusing, thus simulation results reveal the upper limit for light fluctuations. Local wind primarily determines the steepness of capillary-gravity waves which in turn dominate the irradiance variability near the surface. Down to 3 m depth, maximum irradiance peaks that exceed the mean irradiance E d by a factor of more than 7 can be observed at low wind speeds up to 5 m s −1 . The strength of irradiance fluctuations can be even amplified under the influence of higher ultra-gravity waves; thereby peaks can exceed 11 E d . Sea states influence the light field much deeper; gravity waves can cause considerable irradiance variability even at 100 m depth. The simulation results show that under realistic conditions 50 % radiative enhancements compared to the mean can still occur at 30 m depth. At greater depths, the underwater light variability depends on the wave steepness of the characteristic wave of a sea state; steeper waves cause stronger light fluctuations.

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Directional spectra of wind-generated ocean waves

Cited by 840 publications

References 51 publications

Wave modelling – The state of the art

Wave modelling – The state of the art

Wind stress in the presence of swell under moderate to strong wind conditions

On the influence of wind and waves on underwater irradiance fluctuations

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