Differentiation of natural indigo and synthetic indigo in dye powders and their dyed products (yarns and fabrics) by static headspace gas chromatography-mass spectrometry

Abstract

Purpose The precise and sensitive methods for authentication and differentiation of natural and synthetic indigo dyes are required for assurance of textile safety and public health. This study aims to develop a fast and simple method to distinguish natural indigo from synthetic one. Design/methodology/approach A static headspace gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) method was developed for identification of natural and synthetic indigo samples. Natural indigo samples prepared from three different plants and synthetic indigo samples from three famous manufacturers in China, were involved in this study, along with some nonindigo blue samples (such as direct blue, active blue and neutral blue). The yarns and fabrics dyed with natural and synthetic indigo were also analyzed by the GC-MS method. Findings High levels of aniline (21.87%–71.59%) or N-methylaniline (25.26%–38.73%) were detected only in synthetic indigo samples (1 g) using the static headspace GC-MS method. The yarns and fabrics dyed with the synthetic indigo were also detected with residual aniline (0.47%–14.86%) or N-methylaniline (6.59%–40.93%). Originality/value The results clearly demonstrated that aniline or N-methylaniline can be used a diagnostic marker for distinguishing natural indigo from synthetic indigo. The proposed static headspace GC-MS method is a rapid, simple and convenient approach for differentiation of natural and synthetic indigo, as well as for the yarns and fabrics dyed with synthetic indigo.