Development of Spray Dried Spirulina Protein-Berry Pomace Polyphenol Particles to Attenuate Pollution-Induced Skin Damage: A Convergent Food-Beauty Approach

Abstract

Spray drying (SD) microencapsulation of phytochemicals from berry pomaces with Spirulina protein (SP) was incorporated into a cosmeceutical topical formulation to mitigate pollution skin damage. Initially, microparticles produced with SP and polyphenols recovered from fruit pomaces (elderberry SP-EB and muscadine grape SP-MG) were characterized regarding physicochemical and phytochemical content (polyphenol load, carotenoid and phycocyanin contents and antioxidant activity). SP had low total phenolic content (7.43 ± 0.23 mg GAE/g DW), but complexation with elderberry or muscadine grape pomaces polyphenols led to a substantial increase (27.63 ± 1.15 SP-EB and 111.0 ± 2.6 mg GAE/g DW SP-MG). SP-MG particles had higher anthocyanin (26.87 ± 1.25 mg/g) and proanthocyanidin (9.02 ± 0.74 mg/g) contents compared to SP-EB particles. SP-MG were prioritized to prepare a topical gel to attenuate skin oxinflammatory markers and prevent skin barrier disruption using ex vivo human biopsies exposed to diesel engine exhaust (DEE). The immunofluorescence results showed increased oxidative protein damage and inflammation associated with impaired skin barrier function after DEE exposure while topical application of gel formulated with SP-MG mitigated these effects. Overall, this study demonstrated that protein-polyphenol complexation is a synergistic strategy to stabilize and deliver residual fruit/algae phytoactives into cosmeceutical products for skin health applications.

Elderberry pomace for food/nutraceutical product development: impact of drying methods and simulated in vitro gastrointestinal digestion on phenolic profile and bioaccessibility

“…The major compounds detected in dried wastes were cyanidin-3glucoside (≈84%) and rutin (≈12%), whereas quercetin, cyanidin-3,5-diglucosides, and phenolic acids (chlorogenic and ferulic) were present in lower proportion (5%). Similar results were obtained on pomaces of Sambucus nigra L. (Mutavski et al, 2022;Hoskin et al, 2023). In agreement with spectrophotometric analysis, the EP-F presented the highest concentrations of phenolic compounds, followed by EP-FB with values of individual compounds closer to those of EP-C.…”

“…Studies have been developed to recover and give added value to dietary fibre (Sozzi et al, 2021;Sette et al, 2022) and phenolic compounds (Hoskin et al, 2023) from berry wastes. One option is to dehydrate the whole berry pomace in order to generate stable ingredients.…”