Development of a stiffness‐angle law for simplifying the measurement of human hair stiffness

Jung, In Keun; Park, S. C.; Lee, Y. R.; Bin, S. A.; Hong, Yong-Deog; Eun, Dae-Kyung; Lee, J. H.; Roh, Young Sup; Kim, B. M.

doi:10.1111/ics.12447

Cited by 3 publications

(3 citation statements)

References 11 publications

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“…Fibre stiffness has also been reported as an end point for measuring the effect of styling polymer treatments as well as for treatments with actives anticipated to have penetrated the fibre structures following a prolonged contact time. The instruments and methods used vary, from measuring bending force [8] through loop deformation force [9] to measuring bending angle due to gravitational force [10]. Atomic Force Microscopy nano‐indentation and nano‐scratch methods have been used to examine cuticle hardness and elasticity in situ , concluding that chemical and conditioning treatments cause cuticle softening in Caucasian hair [11].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Artificial Intelligence in hair research: A proof‐of‐concept study on evaluating hair assembly features

Daniels¹,

Tamburić²,

Benini

et al. 2021

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Objective The first objective of this study was to apply computer vision and machine learning techniques to quantify the effects of haircare treatments on hair assembly and to identify correctly whether unknown tresses were treated or not. The second objective was to explore and compare the performance of human assessment with that obtained from artificial intelligence (AI) algorithms. Methods Machine learning was applied to a data set of hair tress images (virgin and bleached), both untreated and treated with a shampoo and conditioner set, aimed at increasing hair volume whilst improving alignment and reducing the flyway of the hair. The automatic quantification of the following hair image features was conducted: local and global hair volumes and hair alignment. These features were assessed at three time points: t0 (no treatment), t1 (two treatments) and t2 (three treatments). Classifier tests were applied to test the accuracy of the machine learning. A sensory test (paired comparison of t0 vs t2) and an online front image‐based survey (paired comparison of t0 vs t1, t1 vs t2, t0 vs t2) were conducted to compare human assessment with that of the algorithms. Results The automatic image analysis identified changes to hair volume and alignment which enabled the successful application of the classification tests, especially when the hair images were grouped into untreated and treated groups. The human assessment of hair presented in pairs confirmed the automatic image analysis. The image assessment for both virgin hair and bleached only partially agreed with the analysis of the subset of images used in the online survey. One hypothesis is that treatments changed somewhat the shape of the hair tress, with the effect being more pronounced in bleached hair. This made human assessment of flat images more challenging than when viewed directly in 3D. Overall, the bleached hair exhibited effects of higher magnitude than the virgin hair. Conclusions This study illustrated the capacity of artificial intelligence for hair image detection and classification, and for image analysis of hair assembly features following treatments. The human assessment partially confirmed the image analysis and highlighted the challenges imposed by the presentation mode.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Artificial Intelligence in hair research: A proof‐of‐concept study on evaluating hair assembly features

Daniels¹,

Tamburić²,

Benini

et al. 2021

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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“…In addition, using this physiological ex vivo human skin UV irradiation assay, we assessed whether the topical application of 0.1% caffeine (5.15 mmol/L), a widely used nutraceutical that is also contained as cosmetic ingredient in hair care formulations , interferes with UVR‐induced HF damage. To mimic the experience of consumers using routinely caffeine‐based shampoos, skin samples were treated with caffeine for 3 days prior to UV exposure with 40 J/cm 2 UVA + 40 mJ/cm 2 UVB and for 3 consecutive days after.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Our interest in this ingredient was based on the fact that caffeine 1) is percutanously absorbed very easily and also through the HF when topically applied (47-51); 2) ameliorates UVR mediated-skin reactions in murine and human skin (52)(53)(54)(55)(56), and 3) regulates several aspects of HF biology, including HF cycling ex vivo (57,58) and in vivo (44,59,60). In addition, even though caffeine is commonly used in cosmetic hair care formulations and shampoos (44)(45)(46), the effect of this nutraceutical after topical application on healthy human scalp HFs ex vivo remains to be investigated.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Transepidermal UV radiation of scalp skin ex vivo induces hair follicle damage that is alleviated by the topical treatment with caffeine

Gherardini

Wegner

Chéret

et al. 2019

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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ObjectivesAlthough the effect of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on human skin has been extensively studied, very little is known on how UVR impacts on hair follicle (HF) homeostasis. Here, we investigated how solar spectrum UVR that hits the human skin surface impacts on HF biology, and whether any detrimental effects can be mitigated by a widely used cosmetic and nutraceutical ingredient, caffeine.MethodsHuman scalp skin with terminal HFs was irradiated transepidermally ex vivo using either 10 J/cm2 UVA (340–440 nm) + 20 mJ/cm2 UVB (290–320 nm) (low dose) or 50 J/cm2 UVA + 50 mJ/cm2 UVB (high dose) and organ‐cultured under serum‐free conditions for 1 or 3 days. 0.1% caffeine (5.15 mmol/L) was topically applied for 3 days prior to UV exposure with 40 J/cm2 UVA + 40 mJ/cm2 UVB and for 3 days after UVR. The effects on various toxicity and vitality read‐out parameters were measured in defined skin and HF compartments.ResultsConsistent with previous results, transepidermal UVR exerted skin cytotoxicity and epidermal damage. Treatment with high and/or low UVA+UVB doses also induced oxidative DNA damage and cytotoxicity in human HFs. In addition, it decreased proliferation and promoted apoptosis of HF outer root sheath (ORS) and hair matrix (HM) keratinocytes, stimulated catagen development, differentially regulated the expression of HF growth factors, and induced perifollicular mast cell degranulation. UVR‐mediated HF damage was more severe after irradiation with high UVR dose and reached also proximal HF compartments. The topical application of 0.1% caffeine did not induce skin or HF cytotoxicity and stimulated the expression of IGF‐1 in the proximal HF ORS. However, it promoted keratinocyte apoptosis in selected HF compartments. Moreover, caffeine provided protection towards UVR‐mediated HF cytotoxicity and dystrophy, keratinocyte apoptosis, and tendential up‐regulation of the catagen‐promoting growth factor.ConclusionOur study highlights the clinical relevance of our scalp UV irradiation ex vivo assay and provides the first evidence that transepidermal UV radiation negatively affects important human HF functions. This suggests that it is a sensible prophylactic strategy to integrate agents such as caffeine that can act as HF photoprotectants into sun‐protective cosmeceutical and nutraceutical formulations.

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Green synthesis by extraction of caffeine for cosmeceutical application: A review

Watts,

Pal,

Asthana

et al. 2024

Journal of Molecular Structure

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Development of a stiffness‐angle law for simplifying the measurement of human hair stiffness

Cited by 3 publications

References 11 publications

Artificial Intelligence in hair research: A proof‐of‐concept study on evaluating hair assembly features

Artificial Intelligence in hair research: A proof‐of‐concept study on evaluating hair assembly features

Transepidermal UV radiation of scalp skin ex vivo induces hair follicle damage that is alleviated by the topical treatment with caffeine

Green synthesis by extraction of caffeine for cosmeceutical application: A review

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