Determination of the deep water arrival direction of ocean swell at a coastal station

Austin, Marshall Harlan

doi:10.5962/bhl.title.60670

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Some Applications Swell Source and Direction Determination1

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1972

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“…Additional discussion of the applications described here is given by Thompson (1970) and Austin (1972).…”

Section: Some Applications Swell Source and Direction Determinationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Period by the Wave-Group Method

Thompson

1972

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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The wave-group period, T , is obtained by a eimple manual procedure from the periodic wave groupff'and sequences that appear in strip-chart records. A dozen or more values are commonly derived from a 20-minute record. When plotted as a time-series, T values form patterns that represent individual wave trains, each generated by a synoptic weather event. Swell trains and wind-wave trains can be distinguished by their characteristic period distributions. For swell trains, the mean wave-group frequency, f , obtained from the best-fit line to the time-series plot of f_ values (reciprocal T values), is equivalent to the frequency of maximum energy density, fm, obtained from spectral analysis. The distance and time of origin for a swell train can be determined from the time rate of change of f„, and with the use of weather maps the generating area can be identified and the deep-water arrival direction of the swell train at the wave gage determined. The zero-line crossing period, T , represents an integration of the waves from all wave trains present and has no synoptic significance.

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“…Additional discussion of the applications described here is given by Thompson (1970) and Austin (1972).…”

Section: Some Applications Swell Source and Direction Determinationmentioning

confidence: 99%