Design and Characterization of Topical Formulations: Correlations Between Instrumental and Sensorial Measurements

Abstract

The interaction between cosmetic emulsions and the skin's surface is an important factor to consider in the development of topical formulations. Two important ingredients in cosmetic formulations are waxes and polymers. The physical and mechanical properties of formulations directly impact the interface skin-formulation. To evaluate this interaction, it is important to study the rheology, texture, and sensory properties. In this context, the aim of the study was to evaluate the influence of waxes and polymers on the rheological behavior, texture profile, and sensorial properties of topical formulations and the correlation between these parameters. The best combination of a wax and a polymer was determined by full factorial design of experiments and applied to develop eight formulations that were tested in relation to rheological, mechanical, and sensorial properties. The polymer helps with the spreadability of the formulation, and the wax had a strong influence on the parameters related to the structure of emulsions. A correlation between these parameters was observed. This way, it was possible to compare theoretical and practical data, except between the flow index and the work of shear. Finally, it was possible to predict sensorial aspects from rheological and texture parameters, making the formulation process easier and more integrated with all stages of the development of new topical formulations. Thus, the present study introduces a new proposal in the development of cosmetics.

Brazilian and French sensory perception of complex cosmetic formulations: a cross‐cultural study

“…Four gel‐cream cosmetic formulations were evaluated: a vehicle (S1), which some ingredients were added as UV filters (S2), a combination of natural extracts with anti‐ageing properties – Alfafa, Cichorium root, Spiruline and Red Algae extracts (S3) and UV filters in combinations with these extracts (S4) (Table ). Details of the vehicle formulation have been published previously . We aimed to verify how the two groups of assessors would perceive the sensory effects of the addition of these ingredients.…”

“…‘Integrity of shape’, ‘Cohesiveness’ (Stringiness), ‘Spreading’ (Difficulty of spreading) and ‘Stickiness’ were adapted from literature . ‘Viscosity’ and ‘Consistency’ were present to verify the perception of these characteristics which are highly noticed in gel‐cream formulations due to the presence of waxes . ‘Oily residue’ and ‘White residue’ were descriptors that aimed to verify if the addition of UV filters influenced the oily character of the formulation, as well as, they are characteristics of formulations with high proportions of oil phase.…”

Análise sensorial descritiva: desafios entre a metodologia e a percepção humana

“…As medições foram feitas em triplicata. As propriedades avaliadas foram calculadas através do software disponibilizado pelo fabricante do texturômetro utilizado (CALIXTO et al, 2018).…”

“…A firmeza é determinada pela força máxima da curva positiva, a consistência pelo cálculo da área sob a curva positiva, a coesividade pelo valor máximo da curva negativa e índice de viscosidade pelo cálculo da área sob a curva negativa (Figura 2). Para este teste, as condições empregadas para uso da sonda foram: distância percorrida no retorno de 25 mm, velocidade de retorno 20 mm/s e força de contato de 30g (CALIXTO et al, 2018). Diferentes parâmetros de textura foram coletados a partir da curva de força (Fmáx), e as áreas positivas e negativas (A + e Arespectivamente) sob a curva.…”

Physico-mechanical properties of topical formulations based on different polymers

“…Viscosity and consistency are properties related with the structure of the formulation. (14) This way, increases on concentration of certain polymers as HEC, for example, can result more structured formulations. This information is important for the stability of the final formulation.…”