Deposition of 18‐MEA onto alkaline‐color‐treated weathered hair to form a persistent hydrophobicity

Abstract

incorporation into an o/w emulsion at 8% yielded increased viscosity and reduced emulsion droplet size as compared to the emollient ester CCT (capric/caprylic triglyceride) or a control formulation. Quantitative data indicate that application of the o/w emulsion formulation containing either HP or CCT significantly elevated skin moisture content and thus reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by a maximal 33% against the control formulation within 3 h and maintained this up to 6 h. Visual observation of skin treated with the HP-containing formulation showed fine texture and clear contrast as compared to the control or the CCT formulation, confirming this effect. As a result of increased hydration, skin conductivity, as measured in terms of corneometer values, was also elevated significantly by about tenfold as early as 20 min after HP or CCT application and was maintained throughout the test period. Throughout the test period the HP formulation was 5-10% more effective than the CCT formulation both in reduction of TEWL as well as in increased skin conductivity. Thus, compared to the emollient ester (CCT), HP showed a unique capability for long-lasting effect in retaining moisture and improving skin texture.J. Cosmet. Sci., 60, 25-29 (January/February 2009) A rapid method to clinically assess the effect of an anti-acne formulation Synopsis Historically, clinical evaluation of acne treatment has been based on direct visual assessment and the counting of lesions over a period of several weeks of treatment. However, with advancing technology there has been ever-increasing speed in the effectiveness of these treatments. To successfully assess these faster treatments, acne pathology needs to be evaluated in a shorter time frame. The object of these studies was to develop techniques to evaluate individual acne lesions in a shorter time frame and to assess speedier treatment technologies. Ten healthy volunteers with acne lesions on their upper backs were recruited for the study. Two inflamed acne lesions were selected for each treatment, along with lesions to be left untreated, on each volunteer. Each lesion was marked, photographed, and visually graded. A skin surface microscope (Scopeman) was used to visualize size and to grade the lesions by two experts every day for five days. The sites were treated once a day for the course of the study. There was a remarkable reduction in the size and erythema of acne lesions after treatment with the acne formulation as compared to the untreated and vehicle-treated lesions. Individual lesions, both treated and untreated, appeared resolved in 14 days. This resolution can be noticeably accelerated by topical treatments. We have developed a simple and faster clinical method to evaluate the effects of topical anti-acne technology.A technology for the deposition of a persistent hydrophobicity to alkaline-color-treated weathered hair surfaces using 18-MEA (18-methyleicosanoic acid) is presented. Two approaches were examined in order to make 18-MEA bind tightly to the alkaline-color-tre...

ToF‐SIMS characterization of the lipid layer on the hair surface. II : Effect of the 18‐MEA lipid layer on surface hydrophobicity

“…Our previous work found that the treatment with 18‐MEA combined with SPDA provided hydrophobicity to the damaged hair, and that this property was maintained even after shampooing 12. ToF‐SIMS analyses and dynamic contact angle measurements were performed for hair treated with two conditioner formulas, 18‐MEA/DAPS and 18‐MEA/SPDA, and the relationship between surface hydrophobicity and the adsorption state of 18‐MEA was examined.…”

“…The relationship between the damage level of 18‐MEA and hair hydrophobicity was analyzed, and the influence of the 18‐MEA condition on hair hydrophobicity was examined. Furthermore, we developed a method for the regeneration of 18‐MEA on damaged hair surfaces and found that an 18‐MEA conditioner treatment combined with stearoxypropyldimethylamine (SPDA) effectively results in persistent hydrophobicity and low friction on damaged hair surfaces 12. ToF‐SIMS analyses were performed on conditioner‐treated hair, and the effect of the adsorption state on the surface hydrophobicity was examined.…”

The influence of hair bleach on the ultrastructure of human hair with special reference to hair damage

“…Concretely, it is thought that there arise physical changes such as decreasing the tensile strength of hair fibers 14) and increasing the friction on hair surfaces 15) , and some c hemical changes such as decreasing 18-methyleicosanoic acid 16) which is a specific hair lipid, and increasing cysteic acid by the oxidative cleavage of the disulfide bond of cystine 12) .…”

Investigation of the damage on the outermost hair surface using ToF‐SIMS and XPS

“…The surface damage of hair leads to changes in the physical properties such as increase in hydrophilicity and friction, which decreases hair quality. In previous studies it was revealed that serious damage leading to cleavage of disulfide bonds in cystine and decreasing of the fatty acids occur on the hair surface as shown in Fig. .…”