Cosmetic Functional Ingredients from Botanical Sources for Anti-Pollution Skincare Products

Abstract

Air pollution is a rising problem in many metropolitan areas around the world. Airborne contaminants are predominantly derived from anthropogenic activities, and include carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, volatile organic compounds, ozone and particulate matter (PM; a mixture of solid and liquid particles of variable size and composition, able to absorb and delivery a large number of pollutants). The exposure to these air pollutants is associated to detrimental effects on human skin, such as premature aging, pigment spot formation, skin rashes and eczema, and can worsen some skin conditions, such as atopic dermatitis. A cosmetic approach to this problem involves the topical application of skincare products containing functional ingredients able to counteract pollution-induced skin damage. Considering that the demand for natural actives is growing in all segments of global cosmetic market, the aim of this review is to describe some commercial cosmetic ingredients obtained from botanical sources able to reduce the impact of air pollutants on human skin with different mechanisms, providing a scientific rationale for their use.

Chemodiversity and Antiproliferative Activity of the Essential Oil of Schinus molle Growing in Jordan

“…A hydrocarbon mixture of n ‐alkanes (C 8 −C 20 ) was analyzed separately by GC/MS under the same chromatographic conditions and using the same DP‐5 column. Identification of compounds was based on the built‐in libraries (NIST Co. and Wiley Co., USA) and by comparing their calculated retention indices (RI) relative to (C 8 –C 20 ) n ‐alkanes literature values measured with columns of identical polarity, or with authentic samples (sabinene, α ‐ and β ‐pinene, myrcene, α ‐ and β ‐phellandrenes, p ‐cymene, γ ‐terpinene, terpinolene, linalool, trans ‐caryophyllene, germacrenes B and D (Sigma‐Aldrich, St. Louis, USA)).…”

“…Other secondary metabolites identified and isolated from the aerial parts of S. molle included sesqui‐ and triterpenoids, flavonoids, and other phenolics, such as gallic acid, methyl gallate, chlorogenic acid, and catechin . The occurrence of these phenolics justifies the benefits of S. molle extracts as an antipollution, anti‐aging, and antiwrinkle agent in fighting the detrimental effects of air pollutants on human skin …”

Plant cell culture as emerging technology for production of active cosmetic ingredients

“…Development of such products, known as "cosmeceuticals", reflects a most recent trend in the modern cosmetics and personal care industries. The search for novel natural phytochemicals has led to the gathering bioactive extracts not only by plants, but also from mushrooms, algae, and also, by utilization of by-products of plant origins [13][14][15][16][17]. Most of these phytochemicals, such as polyphenols, phenolic acids, triterpenes, flavonoids, stilbenes, steroids, carotenoids, steroidal saponins, sterols, fatty acids, polysaccharides, sugars, peptides, etc., could be extracted with appropriate solvents and used as active ingredients present in cosmetic formulations [10].…”

“…These are "new generation" of high quality natural products, produced by the modern plan biotechnology methods, which usually showed stronger activities than the plant extracts obtained by the classical methods. The search for novel natural phytochemicals has led to the gathering bioactive extracts not only by plants, but also from mushrooms, algae, and also, by utilization of by-products of plant origins [13][14][15][16][17]. development and characterization of plant cell culture -derived active ingredients are closely discussed in the presented case study for development of InnovaStemCell Calendula product.…”

Schisandra chinensis Protects the Skin from Global Pollution by Inflammatory and Redox Balance Pathway Modulations: An In Vitro Study

“…Moreover, they are known for having a protective effect on oxidative stress and DNA damage that is induced by environmental pollutants (e.g., pesticides and smoking). Luteolin, apigenin, or terniflorin, which are molecules belonging to the flavonoids, and several terpenoid compounds, such as marrubiin, sacranoside, and phenylpropanoid compounds were identified in Marrubium vulgare [12]. The extract of Selaginella lepidophylla (Rose of Jericho or the Desert Rose) contains an adaptive moisture retention complex with film forming properties that improves skin barrier function, offering intense moisturizing benefits and reducing trans epidermal water loss from compromised skin.…”