Concentration of Antioxidant Compounds from Calendula officinalis through Sustainable Supercritical Technologies, and Computational Study of Their Permeability in Skin for Cosmetic Use

Abstract

The growing interest in the cosmetic industry in using compounds of natural and sustainable origin that are safe for humans is encouraging the development of processes that can satisfy these needs. Chlorogenic acid (CHA), caffeic acid (CAF) and ferulic acid (FA) are three compounds widely used within the cosmetic industry due to their functionalities as antioxidants, collagen modifiers or even as radiation protectors. In this work, two advanced separation techniques with supercritical CO2 are used to obtain these three compounds from Calendula officinalis, and these are then evaluated using a computational skin permeability model. This model is encompassed by the COSMO-RS model, the calculations of which make it possible to study the behaviour of the compounds in the epidermis. The results show that both CAF and FA are retained in the stratum corneum, while CHA manages to penetrate to the stratum spinosum. These compounds were concentrated by antisolvent fractionation with super-critical CO2 using a Response Surface Methodology to study the effect of pressure and CO2 flow rate. CHA, CAF and FA were completely retained in the precipitation vessel, with concentrations between 40% and 70% greater than in the original extract. The conditions predicted that the optimal overall yield and enrichment achieved would be 153 bar and 42 g/min.

Efficacy and safety of a facial serum containing snail secretion filtrate, Calendula officinalis, and Glycyrrhiza glaba root extract in the treatment of maskne: A randomized placebo‐controlled study

“…As shown in the earlier studies, the effect of C. officinalis and G. glabra synergistically exerted antibacterial activity against S. aureus and C. acnes 7,22,23 . C. officinalis not only contains polyphenols, ferulic acid, caffeic acid, and chlorogenic acid 22,24 . but also glycyrrhizin, glabridin, and licochalcone A, B, and C in G. glabra can potentiate antioxidant activity 25 .…”

PHENOTYPIC DIVERSITY IN Calendula officinalis L. REGARDING PLANT GROWTH, PHOTOSYNTHETIC TRAITS, FLOWER YIELD, AND OIL CONTENT

“…Pot marigold (Calendula officinalis L.) is an annual herb-shrub distributed and cultivated worldwide that stands out because of its beautiful yellow-orange colors (Givol et al, 2019). This species is widely recognized for its multiple medicinal properties, which include antibacterial, antifungal, antioxidant, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer effects, as well as cosmetic applications (Muley et al, 2009;Jan et al, 2018;Silva et al, 2021;Jabborova et al, 2019;Cruceriu et al, 2018;Mur et al, 2021). These multiple benefits are linked to specialized metabolites such as essential oils, carotenoids, and flavonoids (Salomé-Abarca et al, 2015;Ashwlayan et al, 2018).…”