Pico cheese is a traditional variety manufactured on the eponymous Azorean Island (Portugal). In total, 153 cheeses were analysed. The average total solids (TS) content by the end of maturation was 63.3 ± 0.3 g/100 g, Aw 0.943–0.966, salt‐in‐moisture 2.12–4.17 g/100 g and pH 4.89–5.11 ± 0.02. Proteolysis was similar to that of other Iberian raw milk cheeses, but the free fatty acid content was generally higher. Lactococci were the predominant bacteria. Coagulase‐positive staphylococci constituted the most severe hygiene problem. Positive correlations were found between maturation time and TS, titratable acidity, Aw, proteolysis indices and Enterobacteriaceae and coagulase‐positive staphylococcus viable numbers.