Comparison between Measured and Proposed Body Rise Length Distance for Trouser Pattern Block Construction

Abstract

The aim of this study was to compare body rise distances (crotch depth) from contemporary construction systems with the measured body rise (BRise) distances of the young Slovenian female population to establish which body rise presented in diff erent contemporary construction systems fi ts best to the body dimensions of that specifi c target market group. A total of 180 female students (aged 19 to 27 years) from the University of Ljubljana (Slovenia) volunteered in the study. The results showed that measured body rise distances diff ered signifi cantly from those obtained from most tables of contemporary construction systems or calculated as a secondary measure according to some authors. Measured BRise distances were the same in all size groups and did not increase as the size group increased as is the case with all analysed contemporary construction systems. The range of measured BRise distances within each size group was substantial (SD from 1.47 to 2.75 cm), while the Müller system, as the most frequently used pattern construction system in Slovenia, gave the lowest values of BRise distances for all size groups. In conclusion, the values for body rise distances proposed by diff erent contemporary construction systems diff er signifi cantly from those measured in the young Slovenian female population. It is suggested that body rise distance be included as a directly measured parameter for trouser pattern block construction when producing made-to-measure clothes. Keywords: pattern construction, anthropometric measurements, body rise, trousers, basic pattern block Povzetek Cilj študije je bil primerjati vrednosti globine sedala (GSe) iz sodobnih konstrukcijskih sistemov z izmerjenimi