Comparing the Performance of Spectral Wave Models for Coastal Areas

Fonseca, Rita; Gonçalves, Marta; Soares, C. Guedes

doi:10.2112/jcoastres-d-15-00200.1

Cited by 17 publications

(6 citation statements)

References 19 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Unclassified

Order By: Relevance

“…Reardon et al (, ) investigated STWAVE bed‐shear predictions at a single site in Lake Tahoe under a limited range of wind conditions but did not directly evaluate the validity of steady‐state, uniform‐wind field assumptions. STWAVE has been evaluated in a variety of coastal settings (Buonaiuto et al, ; Dietrich et al, ; Fonseca et al, ; Gonçalves et al, ) and to storm‐forcing predictions in southern Lake Michigan (Jensen et al, ). However, in all of these studies, significant wave heights were roughly an order of magnitude larger than those observed in Lake Tahoe; Lake Michigan (surface area ~58,000 km 2 ) may better reflect conditions in the coastal ocean than those in a fetch‐limited lake.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Predicting Wave‐Induced Sediment Resuspension at the Perimeter of Lakes Using a Steady‐State Spectral Wave Model

Roberts

Moreno-Casas

Bombardelli

et al. 2019

Water Resources Research

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

A steady-state spectral wave model, STWAVE, is evaluated as a tool for predicting wave-induced sediment resuspension in lake littoral zones. Steady-state wave height and bed-shear stress estimates are tested against 2 years of high-frequency wave height and turbidity data from six littoral measurement stations in Lake Tahoe. Average wave and sediment resuspension response to a broad range of wind conditions are well captured by the model. Despite steady-state assumptions, the model reproduces patterns in wave height and sediment resuspension under time-varying wind conditions at sites with different wave exposure. Model results are insensitive to the measurement location of wind data input among six offshore meteorological buoys. Uniform and variable wind field assumptions yield similar resuspension predictions. Results representing the steady-state response to spatially uniform wind speed-direction combinations enable output from a single set of model runs to serve as a reasonable static reference for hindcasting and predicting wave resuspension patterns. This obviates the need for repeated model runs, making STWAVE output an efficient tool for exploring long-term spatio-temporal patterns in nearshore wave forcing. Application of this tool is limited by wave height overprediction for short fetches and presumably by the validity of uniform wind field assumptions over very long fetches. Applied successfully at Lake Tahoe, we find that the north and east shores, exposed to the prevailing southwesterly winds, see resuspension conditions upward of 3,000 hr/year, while the south and west shores typically see less than 500. Location-specific resuspension hours can vary by upward of ±200 hr/year due to shifting interannual wind patterns.Plain Language Summary A tool that describes lake-wide wave conditions as a function of combinations of wind speeds and directions is tested using 2 years of wave height and water clarity data from six nearshore locations at Lake Tahoe. The data confirm the modeling tool's ability to predict wave-driven resuspension of lake bed sediments. An example application details seasonal and interannual variability in wind wave influence at the perimeter of Lake Tahoe. Due to the prevailing southwesterly winds, exposed sections of the north and east shores of the lake can see in excess of 3,000 hr of sediment resuspension-inducing wave conditions per year, while the south and west shores are comparatively calm. In representative year 2016, wave forcing was more prevalent in the fall and winter seasons. Key Points:• A steady-state wind-wave model, with uniform-wind field forcing, accurately predicts littoral sediment resuspension in a deep lake • Model output for discrete wind speed-direction combinations enables reconstruction of resuspension patterns without repeated model runs • Wind waves drive resuspension conditions 30-40% of the fall and winter seasons on the wave-exposed north and east shores of Lake Tahoe

show abstract

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Predicting Wave‐Induced Sediment Resuspension at the Perimeter of Lakes Using a Steady‐State Spectral Wave Model

Roberts

Moreno-Casas

Bombardelli

et al. 2019

Water Resources Research

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…The model takes into account the effects of refraction and shoaling due to varying depths and local wind generation and energy dissipation due to bottom friction and wave-breaking, and it has been validated by comparison with data from buoys and satellites by several authors [8,[110][111][112][113]. Moreover, several scientific papers (e.g., [114][115][116][117]) discussed the overall satisfactory agreement between MIKE 21 SW and SWAN, TOMAWAC and STWAVE. In particular, Ilia and O'Donnell [118] found that both MIKE 21 SW and SWAN were largely consistent in their observations during storms, even if MIKE 21 SW predicted some of the storm peaks slightly better than SWAN.…”

Section: Wave Propagation and Model Calibrationmentioning

confidence: 96%

Multi-Collocation-Based Estimation of Wave Climate in a Non-Tidal Bay: The Case Study of Bagnoli-Coroglio Bay (Tyrrhenian Sea)

Contestabile

Conversano

Centurioni

et al. 2020

Water

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

In this paper, the advantages of shaping a non-conventional triple collocation-based calibration of a wave propagation model is pointed out. Illustrated through a case study in the Bagnoli-Coroglio Bay (central Tyrrhenian Sea, Italy), a multi-comparison between numerical data and direct measurements have been carried out. The nearshore wave propagation model output has been compared with measurements from an acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) and an innovative low-cost drifter-derived GPS-based wave buoy located outside the bay. The triple collocation—buoy, ADCP and virtual numerical point—make possible an implicit validation between instrumentations and between instrumentation and numerical model. The procedure presented here advocates for an alternative “two-step” strategy. Indeed, the triple collocation technique has been used solely to provide a first “rough” calibration of one numerical domain in which the input open boundary has been placed, so that the main wave direction is orthogonally aligned. The need for a fast and sufficiently accurate estimation of wave model parameters (first step) and then an ensemble of five different offshore boundary orientations have been considered, referencing for a more detailed calibration to a short time series of a GPS-buoy installed in the study area (second step). Such a stage involves the introduction of an enhancement factor for the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) dataset, used as input for the model. Finally, validation of the final model’s predictions has been carried out by comparing ADCP measurements in the bay. Despite some limitations, the results reveal that the approach is promising and an excellent correlation can be found, especially in terms of significant wave height.

show abstract

“…The study suggested SWAN simulates significant wave height better, while MIKE21SW simulates wave period and direction better. Conversely, Fonseca et al [3] suggested that MIKE21SW, SWAN, and STWAVE models have similar behavior and precision when examining performance on the Portuguese coast. Hoque et al [4] evaluated SWAN and MIKE21SW in the Mackenzie Delta in Beaufort Sea, Canada.…”

Section: Swan Mike21swmentioning

confidence: 99%

An Assessment of Two Models of Wave Propagation in an Estuary Protected by Breakwaters

Ilia¹,

O’Donnell²

2018

Preprint

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Comparing the Performance of Spectral Wave Models for Coastal Areas

Cited by 17 publications

References 19 publications

Predicting Wave‐Induced Sediment Resuspension at the Perimeter of Lakes Using a Steady‐State Spectral Wave Model

Predicting Wave‐Induced Sediment Resuspension at the Perimeter of Lakes Using a Steady‐State Spectral Wave Model

Multi-Collocation-Based Estimation of Wave Climate in a Non-Tidal Bay: The Case Study of Bagnoli-Coroglio Bay (Tyrrhenian Sea)

An Assessment of Two Models of Wave Propagation in an Estuary Protected by Breakwaters

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About