Comparative analysis of trunk muscle activities in climbing of during upright climbing at different inclination angles

Park, Byung-Joon; Kim, Jang-Hwan; Choi, Byeongho

doi:10.1589/jpts.27.3137

Cited by 6 publications

(7 citation statements)

References 17 publications

(16 reference statements)

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“…It is possible that this relates to the differing physiological demands posed by wall inclination. Steeper wall angles require greater reliance on finger, wrist and forearm flexor musculature ( Baláš et al, 2014 ; Fryer et al, 2011 ; Noé et al, 2001 ; Park et al, 2015 ; Watts and Drobish, 1998 ). As such, the NS style likely increases the rate and magnitude of muscular fatigue compared to SSL, forcing climbers to have shorter attempts and take longer rest periods following those attempts.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Determining differences in TMS of bouldering styles is important for competition and training strategies, as the physiological requirements and preparation may be different. Considering the general climbing literature, an increased wall gradient can differentiate the climbing ability level on a time-to-fatigue task ( Baláš et al, 2021 ), due to greater force application through the hands and fingers relative to the feet ( Noé et al, 2001 ), increased core muscle activation ( Park et al, 2015 ), increased blood lactate accumulation, and decreased total distance climbed ( Fryer et al, 2011 ; Watts and Drobish, 1998 ). The primary limiting factor to rock climbing performance is fatigue of the finger flexors ( Deyhle et al, 2015 ); therefore, increased reliance on the upper body and hand gripping musculature with increased wall steepness provides a strong rationale for altered TMS between climbing styles/wall angles.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Time Management Strategies of Rock Climbers in World Cup Bouldering Finals

Mckellar¹,

Coates²,

Cohen³

et al. 2023

Journal of Human Kinetics

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Competitive rock climbing recently made its Olympic debut, but minimal published research exists regarding training and competition strategies. Time management strategies define the structured approach climbers take in bouldering competitions to successfully obtain a “top” or a “zone” hold. During finals rounds of the International Federation of Sport Climbing bouldering competitions, climbers are allotted 240 s to complete a boulder. Variables influencing a climber’s time management strategies include their work-to-rest intervals, and the frequency of their attempts or rests. Video analysis of International Federation of Sport Climbing competitions was used to collect time management strategy data of professional climbers. Fifty-six boulders (28 female and 28 male boulders) over the 2019 International Federation of Sport Climbing season were analyzed. Time management strategies variables were compared between slab/slab-like and non-slab bouldering styles using generalized estimating equations with significance set to p < 0.05. Additionally, we determined trends in success rates for various styles of boulders. There were no differences in the number of attempts taken per boulder between slab/slab-like and non-slab boulders (3.7 ± 2.3 and 3.8 ± 2.4, p = 0.97), but climbers spent more time actively climbing on slab/slab-like (92 ± 36 s) compared to non-slab boulders (65 ± 26 s, p < 0.001). Trends in the success rate suggest climbers who take more than 6 attempts on any boulder style are unsuccessful. The results of this study provide practical information that can be used by coaches and athletes to guide training and competition strategy.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Time Management Strategies of Rock Climbers in World Cup Bouldering Finals

Mckellar¹,

Coates²,

Cohen³

et al. 2023

Journal of Human Kinetics

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“…Whereas climbing performance is challenging to measure reliably, assessment of the factors that may predict climbing performance is more generally applied. In general, performance in the sport of climbing relies on a complex interaction of physiological factors such as flexibility [ 8 , 9 ], strength [ 5 , 10 – 15 ], and endurance [ 16 , 17 ]. Moreover, the physiological demands of climbing are influenced by factors such as the steepness of the route, the style of climbing, distance between holds, hold size, and the overall difficulty of the climb [ 18 , 19 ].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Moreover, the physiological demands of climbing are influenced by factors such as the steepness of the route, the style of climbing, distance between holds, hold size, and the overall difficulty of the climb [ 18 , 19 ]. While flexibility is challenging to measure [ 20 ] and has not yet received much scientific attention, strength in the finger, arm, shoulder and back muscles is relatively easy to measure in a standardized manner and has been identified as an important determinant of performance in this sport [ 5 , 10 – 15 ]. In addition, muscular endurance assessed by using sub-maximal, intermittent contractions of the finger flexors has been shown to be related to climbing ability [ 16 , 17 ].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effects of climbing- and resistance-training on climbing-specific performance: a systematic review and meta-analysis

Stien¹,

Riiser²,

Shaw³

et al. 2023

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The objective of this systematic review and meta-analysis was to examine the effects of climbing and climbing-and-resistance-training on climbing performance, and strength and endurance tests. We systematically searched three databases (SPORTDiscus, SCOPUS, and PubMed) for records published until January 2021. The search was limited to randomized-controlled trials using active climbers and measuring climbing performance or performance in climbing-specific tests. Data from the meta-analysis are presented as standardized difference in mean (SDM) with 95% confidence intervals (95% CI). Eleven studies are included in the systematic review and five studies compared training to a control group and could be meta-analyzed. The overall meta-analysis displayed an improvement in climbing-related test performance following climbing-specific resistance training compared to only climbing (SDM = 0.57, 95%CI = 0.24–0.91). Further analyses revealed that finger strength (SDM = 0.41, 95%CI 0.03–0.80), rate of force development (SDM = 0.91, 95%CI = 0.21–1.61), and forearm endurance (SDM = 1.23, 95%CI = 0.69–1.77) were improved by resistance-training of the finger flexors compared to climbing training. The systematic review showed that climbing performance may be improved by specific resistance-training or interval-style bouldering. However, resistance-training of the finger flexors showed no improvements in strength or endurance in climbing-specific tests. The available evidence suggests that resistance-training may be more effective than just climbing-training for improving performance outcomes. Importantly, interventional studies including climbers is limited and more research is needed to confirm these findings.

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“…12 However, studies on chang-es in such difficulty levels of training have been limited to static therapeutic climbing exercise for the leg and trunk muscles. 13,14 Moreover, most studies have examined the effects of therapeutic climbing training on psychological effects and improvement effects on fitness and functional performance, while analyses on changes in muscle activities at specific angles based on wall inclination during climbing are still lacking. Accordingly, the objective of the present study was to conduct a comparative analysis on the changes in muscle activities of biceps brachii, serratus anterior, upper trapezius, middle trapezius, and lower trapezius muscles based on wall inclination during therapeutic climbing.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Effects of Therapeutic Climbing on Shoulder Muscle Activity according to the Inclination of the Climbing Wall

Kim

2018

J Kor Phys Ther

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Purpose: Therapeutic climbing has become very popular today, with it being reported as a new method for preventing and treating orthopedic trauma to the shoulder joint. However, objective studies on its effects on the musculoskeletal system are still lacking. The objective of the present study was to investigate the effects of wall inclination during therapeutic climbing on the muscle activity around the shoulder joint. Methods: In this study, the participants performed movements at three different inclination angles of 0°, +15°, and -15°. sEMG was performed to measure the activities of five different muscles around the shoulder joint (biceps brachii, serratus anterior, upper trapezius, middle trapezius, and lower trapezius muscles). Results: Biceps brachii muscle showed a significant increase at -15°, as compared to 0° (p< 0.01), and the serratus anterior also showed a significant increase at -15°, as compared to 0° (p< 0.05). Moreover, the middle and lower trapezius muscles also showed a significant increase at -15°, as compared to 0° (p< 0.001). Compared to 0°, all muscles showed decreased values at 15°, but the differences were not statistically significant (p> 0.05). Conclusion: Therapeutic climbing may be a new therapeutic approach that can increase muscle strength and coordination in the sensory nervous system, since it can be used as a tool that promotes active movement by altering wall inclination and causing the user to generate movements according to the existing situation.

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Comparative analysis of trunk muscle activities in climbing of during upright climbing at different inclination angles

Cited by 6 publications

References 17 publications

Time Management Strategies of Rock Climbers in World Cup Bouldering Finals

Time Management Strategies of Rock Climbers in World Cup Bouldering Finals

Effects of climbing- and resistance-training on climbing-specific performance: a systematic review and meta-analysis

The Effects of Therapeutic Climbing on Shoulder Muscle Activity according to the Inclination of the Climbing Wall

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