Colour fading in textiles: A model study on the decomposition of natural dyes

Colombini, Maria Perla; Andreotti, Alessia; Baraldi, Cecilia; Degano, Ilaria; Łucejko, Jeannette Jacqueline

doi:10.1016/j.microc.2006.04.002

Cited by 111 publications

(88 citation statements)

References 22 publications

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“…Sample P.8 was labelled as "Laque Geranium", the name historically given to eosin-containing pigments [41,42]. The chromatographic analysis yielded unexpected results.…”

Section: Xanthene Pigmentsmentioning

confidence: 99%

HPLC-DAD and HPLC-ESI-Q-ToF characterisation of early 20th century lake and organic pigments from Lefranc archives

et al. 2017

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The characterisation of atelier materials and of the historical commercial formulation of paint materials has recently gained new interest in the field of conservation science applied to modern and contemporary art, since modern paint materials are subjected to peculiar and often unpredictable degradation and fading processes. Assessing the composition of the original materials purchased by artists can guide not only their identification in works of art, but also their restoration and conservation. Advances in characterisation methods and models for data interpretation are particularly important in studying organic coloring materials in the transition period corresponding to the late 19th-early 20th century, when many such variants or combinations were hypothetically possible in their formulations. There is thus a need for reliable databases of materials introduced in that period and for gaining chemical knowledge at a molecular level related to modern organic pigments, by state-of-the-art protocols. This paper reports on the results of a study on 44 samples of historical colorants in powder and paint tubes, containing both lake pigments and synthetic organic pigments dating from 1890 to 1926. The samples were collected at the Lefranc Archive in Le Mans (France) as a part of Project Futurahma "From Futurism to Classicism (1910Classicism ( -1922. Research, Art History and Material Analysis", (FIRB2012, Italian Ministry of University and Research), and were investigated using an analytical approach based on chromatographic and mass spectrometric techniques. The focus of the chemical analyses was to reveal the composition of the historical organic lake pigments including minor components, to discriminate between different recipes for the extraction of chromophore-containing molecules from the raw materials, and ultimately to distinguish between different formulations and recipes. High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with diode array detector (DAD) or electrospray-Quadrupole-Time of Flight tandem mass spectrometry detector (ESI-Q-ToF) were chosen given their considerable capacity to identify such complex and widespread organic materials. Although the inorganic components of the pigments were not taken into account in this survey, the specific molecular profiles provided invaluable information on the extraction procedures or synthetic strategy followed by the different producers, at different times. For instance, the use of Kopp's purpurin and garancine was highlighted, and synthetic by-products were identified. The results provided evidence that the addition of synthetic organic pigments to paint mixtures started from 1910 onwards, but they also suggest that in the formulation of high quality (surfin) colorants, natural products were still preferred. Moreover, in one of the samples the use of murexide as the colouring material was confirmed. This paper presents the first systematic and comprehensive survey on organic lakes and pigments belonging to an historical archive, by both HPLC-DAD and HPLC-ES...

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“…Sample P.8 was labelled as "Laque Geranium", the name historically given to eosin-containing pigments [41,42]. The chromatographic analysis yielded unexpected results.…”

Section: Xanthene Pigmentsmentioning

confidence: 99%

HPLC-DAD and HPLC-ESI-Q-ToF characterisation of early 20th century lake and organic pigments from Lefranc archives

et al. 2017

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“…Grosjean et al (1987) examined the ozone fading of alizarin and Grosjean et al (1988) of indigo deposited on Teflon membrane, the degradation product was analyzed using the mass spectrometry analysis. Colombini et al (2007) examined the degradation of flavonoid yellow dyes such as weld, fustic, and dyer's broom using GC-MS and the degradation pathway was proposed.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Thermal degradation of natural dyes and their analysis using HPLC-DAD-MS

Ahn

Zeng

et al. 2014

Fashion and Textiles

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Berberine, palmatine, alizarin, purpurin, indigotin, and indirubin which were the major coloring compounds of Phellodendron bark, madder, and indigo plant were thermally degraded in 100°C oven in liquid dye form and also in silk dyed with five of these pigments. A mixed dye solution of six coloring compounds was prepared in DMSO solution and was thermally degraded for up to 7 days. Silk were dyed using either a mixed dye solution of five dyes or individual dye solutions and each were degraded for 7 and 14 days, respectively, and the dye was extracted from the samples for the HPLC analysis. The concentration of coloring compounds in the degraded samples were analyzed by HPLC-DAD-MS and the color difference (ΔE) of the degraded silk was examined using a spectro-colorimeter. Alizarin and purpurin were more resistance to degradation than other coloring compounds both when in solution form and in silk dyeings. And such result was verified by the color difference measurement of the degraded silk dyed with individual dye solution. The resistance of alizarin and purpurin to thermal degradation was highly likely due to the fomation of fiber-metal-dye chelated complex by alum or iron mordanting before dyeing.

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“…Different research efforts were carried out to identify dye in museum textiles using instrumental methods such as thin layer chromatography (Schweppe, 1989) and gas chromatography (Ahn & Obendorf, 2004;Casas-Catalán & Doménech-Carbó, 2005;Colombini et al, 2007;Grosjean et al, 1987). TOF-SIMS and MALDI-TOF methods were recommended as the nondestructive methods which identify the molecular ion of the pigment by ion sputtering the sample surface (Lee et al, 2008;Soltzberg et al, 2007).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Simultaneous Analysis of the Coloring Compounds in Indigo, Phellodendron bark, and Madder Dye Using HPLC-DAD-MS

Ahn¹,

Zeng²,

Obendorf³

2013

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles

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Indigotin, indirubin, berberine, palmatine, alizarin, and purpurin are major pigments of indigo plant, Phellodendron bark, and madder. The six pigments were examined using the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument for the purpose of the simultaneous detection of the pigments in a single sample run. The HPLC-DAD-MS method examined the individual pigment solutions in DMSO, a solution containing 6 pigments, and the DMSO extract of the silk dyed with a dye solution of 5 pigments excluding indirubin. The retention times of the HPLC chromatograms, λmax of the uv-vis absorption bands in the DAD analyses, and the molecular ions detected for the compound peaks in the MSD analyses were consistent throughout the analyses of individual pigment solutions, mixed pigment solutions, and dye extracted from silk dyeing. The developed instrumental method of the simultaneous detection of six pigments can identify dye in an exhumed textile if the textile is dyed using any one (or multiple) pigments of indigo, Phellodendron bark, or madder plant.

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Colour fading in textiles: A model study on the decomposition of natural dyes

Cited by 111 publications

References 22 publications

HPLC-DAD and HPLC-ESI-Q-ToF characterisation of early 20th century lake and organic pigments from Lefranc archives

HPLC-DAD and HPLC-ESI-Q-ToF characterisation of early 20th century lake and organic pigments from Lefranc archives

Thermal degradation of natural dyes and their analysis using HPLC-DAD-MS

Simultaneous Analysis of the Coloring Compounds in Indigo, Phellodendron bark, and Madder Dye Using HPLC-DAD-MS

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