Coastal storm characterization and morphological impacts on sandy coasts

Rangel-Buitrago, Nelson; Anfuso, Giorgio

doi:10.1002/esp.2221

Cited by 42 publications

(34 citation statements)

References 50 publications

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“…Similarities to previous studies indicate a general homogeneity of wave climate in the Cadiz Gulf. It is broadly exposed to storms approaching from the third and fourth quadrants, as observed by Rangel‐Buitrago and Anfuso (), who analysed HIPOCAS datasets at five locations along Andalusia's Atlantic littoral.…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 79%

Winter wave climate, storms and regional cycles: the SW Spanish Atlantic coast

Rangel-Buitrago

Anfuso

2012

Intl Journal of Climatology

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Climatic change-related impacts on coastal areas became an important issue in past decades and nowadays threaten many human settlements and activities. Coastal hazards are linked to flooding and erosion processes associated with sea level rise and the increased strength of hurricanes, cyclones and storms. The main aim of this work is the characterization of coastal storms in Cadiz (SW Spain) and the determination of their recurrence intervals and relationships with several regional cycles. Storm characterization was carried out using the Storm Power Index (Dolan and Davis, 1992) and five classes were obtained, from class I (weak events) to V (extreme events). Storm occurrence probability was 96% for class I (i.e. almost one event per year) to 3% for class V. The return period for class V was 25 years and ranged from 6 to 8 years for classes III and IV storms, e.g. significant and severe events. Classes I and II showed a period of recurrence ranging from 1 to 3 years. Stormy winter seasons were 2009/10 (12 events), 1995/6 and 2002/3 (with 10 events each) and 1993/4 (8 events). Approximately 40% of the change in monthly wave data and storminess indices was related to several teleconnection patterns, the most important drivers of change being the Arctic Oscillation (AO), 21.45%, and the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), 19.65%. It is interesting to note that a great number of storms, larger storm duration and higher values of Storm Power Index were only observed when neutral to strong negative NAO and AO phases occurred at the same time (89 storms and 3355 h) and/or when there was an abrupt change of NAO and AO phases, i.e. they moved from a positive to negative phase without passing through a neutral phase. The results obtained in this work have wider applications for ocean and coastal management. It is suggested that methodology used can be easily applied in different areas where wave buoy data are available. In the same way, information obtained with this kind of work constitutes the first step in the development of coastal protection plans to preserve socio-economic activities from the impact of severe storm events.

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Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 79%

Winter wave climate, storms and regional cycles: the SW Spanish Atlantic coast

Rangel-Buitrago

Anfuso

2012

Intl Journal of Climatology

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“…Classes I (weak) and II (moderate) accounted for, respectively, 47% and 26% of records. These values were similar to [44,47,[53][54][55] studies carried out in USA and Spain. Class III (significant), constituted 18% of the record and Classes IV (severe) and V (extreme) accounted for 4% and 6% respectively (Table 3).…”

Section: Wave Climate and Storms (1996-2013)supporting

confidence: 91%

Mesoscale Morphological Change, Beach Rotation and Storm Climate Influences along a Macrotidal Embayed Beach

Thomas

Rangel-Buitrago

Phillips

et al. 2015

JMSE

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Cross-shore profiles and environmental forcing were used to analyse morphological change of a headland bay beach: Tenby, West Wales (51.66 N; −4.71 W) over a mesoscale timeframe (1996)(1997)(1998)(1999)(2000)(2001)(2002)(2003)(2004)(2005)(2006)(2007)(2008)(2009)(2010)(2011)(2012)(2013). Beach profile variations were attuned with longer term shoreline change identified by previous research showing southern erosion and northern accretion within the subaerial zone and were statistically significant in both sectors although centrally there was little or no significance. Conversely a statistically significant volume loss was shown at all profile locations within the intertidal zone. There were negative phase relationships between volume changes at the beach extremities, indicative of beach rotation and results were statistically significant (p < 0.01) within both subaerial (R further cross correlation analysis showed trend reversal time-lagged associations between sediment exchanges at either end of the beach. Wave height and storm events displayed summer/winter trends which explained longer term one directional rotation at this location. In line with previous regional research, environmental forcing suggests that imposed changes are influenced by variations in southwesterly wind regimes. Winter storms are generated by Atlantic southwesterly winds and cause a south toward north sediment exchange, while southeasterly conditions that cause a trend reversal are generally limited to the summer period when waves are less energetic. Natural and man-made embayed beaches are a common coastal feature and many experience shoreline changes, jeopardising protective and recreational beach functions. In order to facilitate effective and sustainable coastal zone management strategies, an understanding of the morphological variability of these systems is needed. Therefore, this macrotidal research dealing with rotational processes across the entire intertidal has significance for other macrotidal coastlines, especially with predicted climate change and sea level rise scenarios, to inform local, regional and national shoreline risk management strategies.

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“…3) coincide with the periods of negative values of NAO index described in Rangel-Buitrago and Anfuso (2011b) for the Gulf of Cádiz, thus confirming the relation observed by Plomaritis et al (2015) between storm record and negative NAO in this area. However, the annual energy at high tide shows a Figure 7.…”

Section: Storm Record and Shoreline Changessupporting

confidence: 82%

“…This may be related to the fact that other years included in that period have a low storm power index (i.e. 1988, 1990, 1991 and 1992) (Rangel-Buitrago and Anfuso, 2011b).…”

Section: Storm Record and Shoreline Changesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Contribution of storms to shoreline changes in mesotidal dissipative beaches: case study in the Gulf of Cádiz (SW Spain)

Puig¹,

Río²,

Plomaritis

et al. 2016

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. In this study an analysis of storminess and rates of shoreline change is performed and discussed jointly in four geomorphological units of the Gulf of Cádiz (SW Spain) for the period of 1956-2010. For this purpose, storm events are identified based on the following characteristics: wave height above 2.5 m, a minimum duration of 12 h and events with calm periods of less than 24 h were considered as a single event. Subsequently, energy parameters are determined in order to characterize storm-induced impacts. Conversely, geographic information system (GIS) tools are used to measure shoreline changes in aerial photographs and orthophotographs of each site, selecting the high water line as shoreline proxy. Each geomorphological unit is divided into different behavioural patterns according to recorded coastal changes, so that each one shows a particular behaviour.In general the variability of shoreline changes that is explained by storms and the relation between storm parameters and coastal changes present better results in exposed areas (Cádiz and Vistahermosa) than in sheltered areas (Valdelagrana spit barrier) because the former are more sensitive to storm impacts. On the contrary, in areas where there is no relation between coastal changes and storm parameters (Valdelagrana and Sancti Petri sand spit), it is suggested that anthropogenic factors are the main forcing agents determining shoreline behaviour. However, in these areas the storminess also modulates coastline recession by increasing erosion when the number of storms is high.

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Coastal storm characterization and morphological impacts on sandy coasts

Cited by 42 publications

References 50 publications

Winter wave climate, storms and regional cycles: the SW Spanish Atlantic coast

Winter wave climate, storms and regional cycles: the SW Spanish Atlantic coast

Mesoscale Morphological Change, Beach Rotation and Storm Climate Influences along a Macrotidal Embayed Beach

Contribution of storms to shoreline changes in mesotidal dissipative beaches: case study in the Gulf of Cádiz (SW Spain)

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