Characterization of suspected illegal skin whitening cosmetics

Desmedt, Bart; Hoeck, Els Van; Rogiers, Vera; Courselle, P.; Beer, Jacques O. De; Paepe, Kristien De; Deconinck, Éric

doi:10.1016/j.jpba.2013.11.024

Cited by 50 publications

(41 citation statements)

References 8 publications

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“…For this reason, their concentration should not exceed 10% (m/m) in the finished product, with a final pH of the formulation not lower than 3.5. Moreover, corticosteroid-containing creams, diverted from their prime usage (e.g., anti-inflammatory), lead to severe adverse effects, ranging from irreversible stretch marks and epidermal thinning to neuropathy and steroid addiction [2,148]. Furthermore, some research has suggested that kojic acid may cause allergic contact dermatitis and skin irritation, and even cancer in large doses [149].…”

Section: Current Regulationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Skin Whitening Cosmetics: Feedback and Challenges in the Development of Natural Skin Lighteners

et al. 2016

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Abstract:With the public's growing interest in skin whitening, lightening ingredients only used under dermatological supervision until recently, are more and more frequently incorporated into cosmetic formulas. The active agents that lighten skin tone are either natural or synthetic substances, and may act at various levels of melanogenesis. They are used to treat various skin pigmentation disorders or simply to obtain a lighter skin tone as whiter skin may be synonymous of wealth, health, youth, and/or beauty in different cultures. However, recent studies demonstrated the adverse effects of some of these ingredients, leading to their interdiction or restricted use under the European Directive and several other international regulations. After an overview of skin whitening practices and the associated risks, this article provides insight into the mechanisms involved in melanin synthesis and the biological assays available to attest the lightening activity of individual ingredients. The legislation dealing with the use of skin lighteners is then discussed. As traditional depigmenting agents such as hydroquinone and corticosteroids are of safety concern, the potential of natural extracts has been investigated more and more; finally, a synthesis of three years of research in our laboratory for such plant extracts will be given.

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Section: Current Regulationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Skin Whitening Cosmetics: Feedback and Challenges in the Development of Natural Skin Lighteners

et al. 2016

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“…In East Asian more than Western cultures, a particular reverence for white skin has unfortunately contributed to the widespread use of leadcontaining cosmetics, resulting in lead poisoning becoming a social issue (Dunbabin et al 1992;Witkowski and Parish 2001). Bleaching agents classified as medicinal ingredients are also illegally added to some cosmetics that target consumers seeking substantially whiter skin (Desmedt et al 2014).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Facial Lab* values and preferred base makeup products among native Korean women: a clinical study

Jung¹,

Jo²,

Kwon³

et al. 2017

biomed dermatol

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Background: Bare face L*a*b* values are needed to serve as a standard reference point for the development of base makeup products for Korean women. Methods: A total of 543 Korean women ranging in age from their 20s to 50s underwent spectrophotometer skin analysis under constant temperature (22 ± 2%) and humidity (50 ± 5%) conditions. Eight parts of each subject's face (center of the forehead, right cheekbone, right cheek, under the chin, left cheek, left cheekbone, philtrum, and under the lips) were measured, and average values were calculated. Subjects were then asked to complete questionnaires regarding their use and preferences for base makeup products. Results: Skin tone was classified into three categories (dark, normal, bright) based on L* values. Compared with the contrast value, the dark group L* was 60.66 and the normal group L* was 63.87 (with a difference of 3.21), and the bright group L* was 66.66 (with a difference of 2.79 from the normal group). According to the survey responses regarding preferences and use of base makeup products, the most common answer for all respondents regardless of age was that their skin tone was average or slightly darker than that of their peers. Preferred base makeup products usually were found to be of slightly brighter color than actual skin tone. As in previous studies, the most frequently used base makeup product regardless of age was BB cream. Conclusions: Given that the average L* standard deviation between groups was 3, a difference of one step in skin tone may be considered to be equivalent to this L* value difference. The survey results suggest that target colors for base makeup product development should be brighter than bare face tones.

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“…But there is not any study to expode phenylenediamines may be detected in what kind of color. It is well reported that these dye products are of health concern due to risks of allergic dermatitis, nephrotoxic and carcinogenic effects [1][2][3][4][5] . In Chinese hygienic standard for cosmetics, OPD, MPD are forbidden to be added [6] .…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Illegally additives determination by thin layer chromatography

et al. 2016

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Abstract. To find out a simple TLC method which could identify m-phenyenediamine and ophenylenediamine in several colors of oxidation hair coloring products simultaneously. The colors includes black, yellow, brown and red. A small amount of the sample was placed on a silica gel GF 254 plate by sample applicator and run using a solvent containing ethyl acetate-butanol -water (37.5:37.5:25 vol). This study established TLC conditions which could let phenylenediamines better separaed and be detected in oxidation hair coloring products simultaneously.

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Characterization of suspected illegal skin whitening cosmetics

Cited by 50 publications

References 8 publications

Skin Whitening Cosmetics: Feedback and Challenges in the Development of Natural Skin Lighteners

Skin Whitening Cosmetics: Feedback and Challenges in the Development of Natural Skin Lighteners

Facial Lab* values and preferred base makeup products among native Korean women: a clinical study

Illegally additives determination by thin layer chromatography

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Characterization of suspected illegal skin whitening cosmetics

Cited by 50 publications

References 8 publications

Skin Whitening Cosmetics: Feedback and Challenges in the Development of Natural Skin Lighteners

Skin Whitening Cosmetics: Feedback and Challenges in the Development of Natural Skin Lighteners

Facial L*a*b* values and preferred base makeup products among native Korean women: a clinical study

Illegally additives determination by thin layer chromatography

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Product

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Facial Lab* values and preferred base makeup products among native Korean women: a clinical study