Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea storm sea states

Soares, C. Guedes; Cherneva, Z.; Antão, E.M.

doi:10.1016/j.apor.2004.02.005

Cited by 116 publications

(23 citation statements)

References 18 publications

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“…According to –, a simple relation between skewness and kurtosis exists: μ 4 b = 3 + [see also Marthinsen and Winterstein , 1992; Mori and Janssen , 2006]; this quadratic relation, with our experimental data is shown in Figure 3. The empirical relation by Guedes Soares et al [2003] is also shown in Figure 3. As can be seen there is no agreement (except for the point that corresponds to the first probe closest to the wave generator), although both the theoretical and empirical curve show qualitatively a similar tendency.…”

Section: Comparison Of the Laboratory Data And Theorymentioning

confidence: 89%

“…Relationship between skewness and kurtosis. The solid circles are the experimental data, the solid line is the second‐order nonlinear theory by Marthinsen and Winterstein [1992], and the dashed line is the emperical fit by Guedes Soares et al [2003].…”

Section: Comparison Of the Laboratory Data And Theorymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In deep water, modulational instability in crossing seas can also play a role [ Onorato et al , 2006]: the presence of a second sea system can trigger some instability in the first sea state that, if alone, would be stable. The evidence of freak wave generation in the real ocean analyzing were reported by analyzing field data of the North Sea [ Stansell et al , 2003; Guedes Soares et al , 2003], the Sea of Japan [ Yasuda and Mori , 1997; Yasuda et al , 1997], and the Gulf of Mexico [ Guedes Soares et al , 2004].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

On the extreme statistics of long‐crested deep water waves: Theory and experiments

Mori¹,

Onorato²,

Janssen³

et al. 2007

J. Geophys. Res.

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[1] Quasi-resonant four-wave interactions may influence the statistical properties of deep water long-crested surface gravity waves. As a consequence, the wave height exceedance probability can substantially deviate from the expected distribution obtained by assuming that waves are linear. Here the occurrence probability of extreme events recently derived by N. Mori and P. Janssen (2006) is compared with wave tank data, where strong departures from Gaussian behavior are observed. Experimental wave height, maximum wave height distribution, and probability of occurrence of freak waves are compared with theoretical expectations. The theory well predicts extreme waves in nonlinear wavefields.

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Section: Comparison Of the Laboratory Data And Theorymentioning

confidence: 89%

Section: Comparison Of the Laboratory Data And Theorymentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

On the extreme statistics of long‐crested deep water waves: Theory and experiments

Mori¹,

Onorato²,

Janssen³

et al. 2007

J. Geophys. Res.

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show abstract

“…Freak wave studies started in the late 1980s [ Dean , 1990] and high‐order nonlinear effects of freak waves were discussed in the early 1990s at several engineering conferences [ Yasuda et al , 1992]. Evidence of freak wave generation in the ocean was reported from field observations in the North Sea [ Guedes Soares et al , 2003], the Sea of Japan [ Yasuda and Mori , 1997] and the Gulf of Mexico [ Guedes Soares et al , 2004]. Due to the many research efforts, the occurrence of freak waves, their mechanisms, and their detailed dynamic properties are now becoming more clear [ Trulsen and Dysthe , 1997; Lavrenov , 1998; Osborne et al , 2000; Onorato et al , 2001; Mori et al , 2002].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Freak waves under typhoon conditions

Mori

2012

J. Geophys. Res.

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[1] Benjamin-Feir Index (BFI) and directional spread are measures of nonlinear four-wave interactions and resultant indices of possible conditions for freak waves. Temporal-spatial distributions of BFI and directional spread are examined with numerical simulations of a spectral wave model using typhoon conditions. The spatial distributions of wave characteristics such as significant wave height, wave period, BFI and directional spread are different from each other around the eye of the typhoon. BFI is significantly large in the fourth quadrant of the typhoon, while waves are steep and have narrow frequencies and directional spectra. Freak waves resulting from nonlinear four-wave-wave interactions have a greater potential of occurring in the fourth quadrant of the typhoon than in the other quadrants. Furthermore, crossing sea states from two-wind-wave systems can be observed behind the eye of the typhoon. The crossing, two-wind systems are also dangerous sea states, although as observed, they are closer to linear wave conditions. Finally, the characteristics of possible freak wave conditions during typhoons are verified with field data.

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“…In consequence, data-based information concerning rogue waves is comparatively poor and incomplete, and definitely more analysis of real ocean wave measurements is highly desirable. Today there are only a limited number of publications presenting analysis of extreme waves recorded in the North Sea [23][24][25], the Japan Sea [26], and the Black Sea [27]. The number of laboratory experiments in wave tanks, to study wave structures and wave formation, and to test different hypotheses on wave turbulence and rogue wave formation, is also relatively small [1].…”

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confidence: 99%

Stochastic analysis of ocean wave states with and without rogue waves

2014

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This work presents an analysis of ocean wave data including rogue waves. A stochastic approach based on the theory of Markov processes is applied. With this analysis we achieve a characterization of the scale-dependent complexity of ocean waves by means of a Fokker-Planck equation, providing stochastic information on multi-scale processes. In particular, we show evidence of Markov properties for increment processes, which means that a three-point closure for the complexity of the wave structures seems to be valid. Furthermore, we estimate the parameters of the Fokker-Planck equation by parameter-free data analysis. The resulting Fokker-Planck equations are verified by numerical reconstruction. This work presents a new approach where the coherent structure of rogue waves seems to be integrated into the fundamental statistics of complex wave states.

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Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea storm sea states

Cited by 116 publications

References 18 publications

On the extreme statistics of long‐crested deep water waves: Theory and experiments

On the extreme statistics of long‐crested deep water waves: Theory and experiments

Freak waves under typhoon conditions

Stochastic analysis of ocean wave states with and without rogue waves

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