Calculating the wave runup on a low-sloping beach using a high-order Boussinesq model

We study the run up of long solitary waves of different polarities on a beach in the case of compos ite bottom topography: a plane sloping beach transforms into a region of constant depth. We confirm that nonlinear wave deformation of positive polarity (wave crest) resulting in an increase in the wave steepness leads to a significant increase in the run up height. It is shown that nonlinear effects are most strongly pro nounced for the run up of a wave with negative polarity (wave trough). In the latter case, the run up height of such waves increases with their steepness and can exceed the amplitude of the incident wave.Keywords: surface waves in water, run up of long waves on a coast, plane beach, wave shape, wave polarity

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“…In this paper we cite only a few publica tions after 2005 [2][3][4][5][6][7][8]. References to older publica tions can be found in review [9].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 98%

Run-up of long solitary waves of different polarities on a plane beach

Didenkulova

Pelinovsky

Didenkulov³

2014

Izv. Atmos. Ocean. Phys.

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“…Kanoglu (2004) focused on initial value problem of the nonlinear evolution and run-up and run-down of long waves on sloping beaches for different initial wave forms [4]. Shermeneva and Shugan (2006) calculated the run-up of long gravity waves on a sloping beach using a high-order Boussinesq model [5]. Wei et al (2006) simulated the long wave run-up under nonbreaking and breaking conditions with two dimensional well-balanced finite volume methods [6].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A Moving Boundary Wave Run-Up Model

Inan

Balas

2007

Computational Science – ICCS 2007

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Abstract. A numerical model has been developed for the simulation long wave propagation and run-up accounting for the bottom friction. Shallow water continuity and momentum equations are solved numerically by a two time step finite difference method. The upwind/downwind method is applied to the nonlinear advection terms and the continuity equation. Effects of damping and bottom friction on the computations are investigated. Since the equations lose their validity when waves break, wave breaking has been checked at every step of the computations. A point can be either wet or dry at different time levels. A moving boundary description and staggered grid are used to overcome the difficulty of determining wet and dry points. Equations are solved by the finite difference approximations of second and third order accuracy. Furthermore, space filters are applied to prevent parasitic short wave oscillations.

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Propagation of a Tsunami in the Ocean and Its Interaction with the Coast

Левин

Носов

2015

Physics of Tsunamis

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Calculating the wave runup on a low-sloping beach using a high-order Boussinesq model

Cited by 6 publications

References 4 publications

Run-up of long solitary waves of different polarities on a plane beach

Run-up of long solitary waves of different polarities on a plane beach

A Moving Boundary Wave Run-Up Model

Propagation of a Tsunami in the Ocean and Its Interaction with the Coast

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