Bringing terroir back to the roots? A methodological proposal for studying local food products

Abstract

Purpose In line with various scientific papers warning against an inconsistent use of this adjective for food qualification, the purpose of this paper is to point out the sweeping assertion that “local” equates to “ecological”. Design/methodology/approach Looking beyond the measurement of carbon emissions to assess impacts on the environment, this paper addresses ecological issues in terms of interactions with the environment. To this end, it enhances an under-the-skin approach that goes through “local” fruit and vegetables to look into seed management and plant breeding practices. Findings This method, tested with 2 vegetative species – apple and potato – on 12 case studies in Europe, allows to build a typology that discriminates between: producing food without reproducing plants, grafting trees and storing tubers for maintaining landraces, and sowing seeds to restart the breeding process from the early beginning, trying in this way to enhance the capacity of plants to better fit with their environment. The typology matches a gradient that describes various degrees of intensity of environment–society relationships, from disconnection to adaptation – conceived on the one hand as already stabilized and on the other hand as still evolving. Research limitations/implications This analytical framework sheds light on contradictions that many local food networks have to face while yearning for a recognition by a geographical indication. Originality/value The paper argues that vegetal material might be a fruitful research object for tracking the controversies that unfold along the construction of local food products. It discusses social constructivist approaches of terroir while advocating for a materialist approach.

Padrón peppers or peppers from Herbón? Discussing the controversial attainment of a geographical indication in light of food (re)localisation approaches

“…Herbón farmers emphasised these localised resources and qualities to justify the distinctiveness of the production and their rights over it. This construction of terroir , given its spatial limitation, served as a discursive framework against the introduction in the GI of other companies (Garçon, 2019). Importantly, some AFN scholars have tended to blame this kind of position as ‘defensive localism’ based on exclusionary practices (DuPuis & Goodman, 2005; May, 2017).…”

“…The Anglophone‐based relational perspective was also topical for critically studying the construction and validation of terroirs within GI application processes. Demossier (2011), Grasseni (2016) and Garçon (2019) showed that stakeholders can make use of an array of evidence such as historic documents or agronomic measurements to reinforce certain GI territorial bonds and, by doing so, exclude other producers. Meanwhile, other GIs present a weaker product– terroir link with a bias towards tourism development and/or production growth (Alonso & Parga, 2018; Bowen & Zapata, 2009; Brunori & Rossi, 2007).…”

Country‐of‐origin, region‐of‐origin or terroir branding to entice premium Price? The curious case of geographic place origin construal and psychic distance

“…Legally recognised terroir also turns into a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), which can be used as a certification of origin and production processes, such as Brie de Provance (Charters et al, 2017). Currently, terroir branding is applied to a variety of agricultural products and natural resources; however, empirical studies are limited and are often restricted to alcohol (Garçon, 2019; Sjölander‐Lindqvist et al, 2020; Table 1).…”

The emergence of biological invasions on food chains: a DPSIR analysis

“…The connection the result of local knowledge together with soil, climate and the biotic environment which cannot be found elsewhere and obviously are required to be preserved from alien invasion (Barrionuevo et al , 2019; Garçon, 2019).…”