Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers

Schweizer, Andreas

doi:10.1016/s0021-9290(00)00184-6

Cited by 132 publications

(141 citation statements)

References 16 publications

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“…It seems that such high amount of friction only occurs during high load or compression between pulley and flexor tendons. High compression forces were measured directly and found to be three times as high over the distal edge of the A2 pulley (PIP 901 flexed) compared with the external force at the tip of the finger (Schweizer, 2001).…”

Section: Friction In the Tendon-pulley Interfacementioning

confidence: 99%

“…Foremost the so-called crimp grip position where the PIP joint is flexed 901 or more and the DIP joint is hyperextended results in a distinct bowstringing (Schweizer, 2001) and stresses the distal edge of the A2 pulley mostly. Zhao et al (2000) showed that gliding resistance of the flexor tendon increased as the PIP joint angle increased.…”

Section: Injury Mechanism Of the A2 Pulley In Rock Climbersmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Friction between human finger flexor tendons and pulleys at high loads

Schweizer

Frank

Ochsner

et al. 2003

Journal of Biomechanics

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A method was developed to indirectly measure friction between the flexor tendons and pulleys of the middle and ring finger in vivo. An isokinetic movement device to determine maximum force of wrist flexion, interphalangeal joint flexion (rolling in and out) and isolated proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint flexion was built. Eccentric and concentric maximum force of these three different movements where gliding of the flexor tendon sheath was involved differently (least in wrist flexion) was measured and compared. Fifty-one hands in 26 male subjects were evaluated. The greatest difference between eccentric and concentric maximum force (29.9%) was found in flexion of the PIP joint. Differences in the rolling in and out movement (26.8%) and in wrist flexion (14.5%) were significantly smaller. The force of friction between flexor tendons and pulleys can be determined by the greater difference between eccentric and concentric maximum force provided by the same muscles in overcoming an external force during flexion of the interphalangeal joints and suggests the presence of a non-muscular force, such as friction. It constitutes of 9% of the eccentric flexion force in the PIP joint and therefore questions the low friction hypothesis at high loads. r

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Section: Friction In the Tendon-pulley Interfacementioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Injury Mechanism Of the A2 Pulley In Rock Climbersmentioning

confidence: 99%

Friction between human finger flexor tendons and pulleys at high loads

Schweizer

Frank

Ochsner

et al. 2003

Journal of Biomechanics

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“…The slope grip corresponds to a large flexion of both the DIP and PIP joints and is typically used for holes or sloppy holds whose depths are larger than the distal phalanx length (Amca et al 2012). Although the slope grip is not specific to sport climbing activities, the force levels produced at the fingertips were shown to be similar to those during the crimp grip for a 1 cm depth hold (Quaine and Vigouroux 2004;Schweizer 2001). To improve the understanding of these two grip techniques, Vigouroux et al ( , 2008 and Schöffl et al (2009a) investigated the muscle forces exerted during maximal crimp grip forces and maximal slope grip forces.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The crimp grip consists in a hyper-extension of distal interphalangeal (DIP) joints combined with an important flexion of proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joints and is used to grasp sharp holds whose depths are smaller than the distal phalanx length. This particular finger posture has clearly been associated with finger pulley rupture which is one of the most common pathologies among climbers (Schweizer 2001). The slope grip corresponds to a large flexion of both the DIP and PIP joints and is typically used for holes or sloppy holds whose depths are larger than the distal phalanx length (Amca et al 2012).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Estimation of hand and wrist muscle capacities in rock climbers

2014

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imbalance between flexor and extensor capacities which suggests a potential risk of pathologies. Conclusions The practice of climbing not only increased the strength of climbers but also resulted in specific adaptations among hand muscles. The proposed method and the obtained data could be re-used to optimize the training programs as well as the rehabilitation processes following hand pathologies. Muscle imbalance ratio of the j joint (j = MCP or wrist) Keywords AbstractPurpose This study investigated the hand and wrist muscle capacities among expert rock climbers and compared them with those of non-climbers. The objective was to identify the adaptations resulting from several years of climbing practice. Methods Twelve climbers (nine males and three females) and 13 non-climber males participated in this study. Each subject performed a set of maximal voluntary contractions about the wrist and the metacarpo-phalengeal joints during which net joint moments and electromyographic activities were recorded. From this data set, the muscle capacities of the five main muscle groups of the hand (wrist flexors, wrist extensors, finger flexors, finger extensors and intrinsic muscles) were estimated using a biomechanical model. This process consisted in adjusting the physiological crosssectional area (PCSA) and the maximal muscle stress value from an initial generic model. Results Results obtained from the model provided several new pieces of information compared to the analysis of only the net joint moments. Particularly, the capacities of the climbers were 37.1 % higher for finger flexors compared to non-climbers and were similar for finger extensor and for the other muscle groups. Climbers thus presented a greaterCommunicated by Nicolas Place.

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“…Two papers were studies of diagnostic accuracy (18,19). The remainder of the articles included seven reviews (10,13,(15)(16)(17)24,34), two case studies (8,9), eight comparative studies (12,14,22,23,27,28,30,31), and 10 noncomparative studies (2,3,11,20,21,25,26,29,32,33), of varying quality. The findings are presented below in three sections corresponding to the three research questions.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Diagnosis of finger flexor pulley injury in rock climbers: A systematic review

Sheikh¹,

Wong²

2006

CAN J PLAST SURG

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BACKGROUND: Closed injury to the finger flexor pulley system is found frequently in rock climbers. There are no evidence-based published guidelines on the diagnosis and treatment of these injuries. OBJECTIVES: The present systematic review was undertaken to answer the following questions: what are the most commonly recommended diagnostic criteria for finger flexor pulley injury in rock climbers; and, based on the available evidence, what is the best diagnostic test for these injuries? METHODS: Four electronic databases were searched using specific key terms, with limits set for language and date. Two reviewers independently identified potentially relevant titles based on inclusion criteria. Inter-reviewer variability was assessed using the Kappa statistic. The scientific quality of articles was assessed using validated scales. RESULTS: Of the 93 articles identified, 29 were included in the present analysis. The inter-rater agreement for selection of potentially relevant titles was 88% (kappa=0.74). The most commonly cited diagnostic criterion for closed finger pulley injury was clinical bowstringing of the flexor tendons over the volar aspect of the proximal interphalangeal joint. However, the best study of diagnostic accuracy for these injuries supports the use of dynamic ultrasound. CONCLUSIONS: Dynamic ultrasound is recommended for the diagnosis of closed finger pulley injuries in rock climbers. The prevailing notion that these injuries can be diagnosed by testing for clinical bowstringing is not supported by evidence.

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Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers

Cited by 132 publications

References 16 publications

Friction between human finger flexor tendons and pulleys at high loads

Friction between human finger flexor tendons and pulleys at high loads

Estimation of hand and wrist muscle capacities in rock climbers

Diagnosis of finger flexor pulley injury in rock climbers: A systematic review

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