Biocosmetics: technological advances and future outlook

Abstract

The paper provides an overview of biocosmetics, which has tremendous potential for growth and is attracting huge business opportunities. It emphasizes the immediate need to replace conventional fossil-based ingredients in cosmetics with natural, safe, and effective ingredients. It assembles recent technologies viable in the production/extraction of the bioactive ingredient, product development, and formulation processes, its rapid and smooth delivery to the target site, and fosters bio-based cosmetic packaging. It further explores industries that can be a trailblazer in supplying raw material for extraction of biobased ingredients for cosmetics, creating biodegradable packaging, or weaving innovation in fashion clothing. Lastly, the paper discusses what it takes to become the first generation of a circular economy and supports the implementation of strict regulatory guidelines for any cosmetic sold globally.

Characterisation of cytotoxicity and immunomodulatory effects of glycolipid biosurfactants on human keratinocytes

“…Cosmetics and personal care products are formulated to function as an added nutritional source to the human skin, improve skin barrier functions, inhibit the growth of pathogenic microorganisms, cleanse, and moisturise skin surfaces (Heinrich et al 2014 ; Rodan et al 2016 ; Purnamawati et al 2017 ; Yamaguchi et al 2017 ; Bouslimani et al 2019 ). Despite these health benefits and the subsequent ubiquitous and frequent use of cosmetics and personal skincare products, many of the component ingredients used in their base formulations are often synthesised from petrochemical resources; a key example are surfactants such as synthetic sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES), which can make up to 50% (v/v) of the formulation and play a role in emulsification, gelling, and micro-encapsulation (Leoty-Okombi et al 2021 ; Moldes et al 2021 ).These synthetically derived surfactants have drawbacks with regards to their sustainability and are less biodegradable than biologically derived alternatives (Marchant and Banat 2012 ; Suhail et al 2019 ; Goyal and Jerold 2021 ). Synthetically derived surfactants such as SLES are also reported to have the potential to cause allergic reactions, skin irritations, and dysbiosis in the skin microbiome when they come into direct contact with the human skin (Bouslimani et al 2019 ; Mijaljica et al 2022 ).…”

“…This ultimately destabilises the structural integrity of the skin and subsequently results in transepidermal water loss (Seweryn 2018 ). As such, there is a current market demand to replace synthetic ingredients in cosmetics and personal skincare formulations with naturally derived and biocompatible alternatives generated from sustainable resources (Otzen 2017 ; Mohiuddin 2019 ; Goyal and Jerold 2021 ).…”

Evaluation of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Kombucha-Fermented Berry Leaf Extracts Considered to Be By-Products

“…The use of raw materials of plant origin in products intended for the care and treatment of various skin diseases is a common practice [ 1 , 2 ]. Flowers, fruits, leaves, roots, seeds, skins and plant herbs are very often used to obtain extracts used in the production of cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations [ 3 , 4 ].…”

A Review on Potential Applications of Sericin, and its Biological, Mechanical, and Thermal Stability Characteristics

“…Moisturizers have been designed specifically for preventing and delaying the drying of the skin's top layer. Because sericin absorbs UV radiation, it might be used as sunscreen [92], [93]. Other applications include compounds that absorb sweat and fat secreted by the skin's sebaceous glands.…”