Beach Wizard: Nearshore bathymetry estimation through assimilation of model computations and remote observations

Dongeren, Ap van; Plant, Nathaniel G.; Cohen, Anna; Roelvink, Dano; Haller, Merrick C.; Catalán, Patricio A.

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.04.011

Cited by 120 publications

(122 citation statements)

References 31 publications

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“…For example, it is feasible to detect water lines at different stages of the tide to build up a digital elevation model of the intertidal zone (e.g., Aarninkhof et al, 2003). Similarly, breaking patterns can be inverted into depth estimates (e.g., Van Dongeren et al, 2008). Neither of these two techniques are, in their present state, fully automated and are insufficiently validated because of a clear lack of bathymetric monitoring data.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Nearshore evolution at Noordwijk (NL) in response to nourishments, as inferred from Argus video imagery

Ruessink

Grinten

Vonhögen-Peeters

et al. 2012

NCK-days 2012 : Crossing Borders in Coastal Research : Jubilee Conference Proceedings

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We use an approximately 16-year long data set of daily low-tide video images to examine the effect of three consecutive nourishments on the temporal evolution of the subtidal sandbars and the low-tide water line at Noordwijk, The Netherlands. The data set starts in 1995, with shoreface nourishments implemented in 1998 and in 2006, and a "Zwakke Schakel" beach nourishment in 2007/2008. We find that, consistent with observations elsewhere, the shoreface nourishments halted the interannual, net-seaward migration of the two sandbars. Also, the first nourishment resulted in large-scale sandbar variability known as bar switching. The beach nourishment had no effect on the sandbars, other than an immediate 50-m seaward shift of the low-tide waterline and the inner sandbar. Neither the shoreface nor the beach nourishments were found to result in an increase or decrease in the number and cross-shore extent of rip channels. On the whole, the successive nourishments have reduced the natural dynamics of the Noordwijk coastal system.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Nearshore evolution at Noordwijk (NL) in response to nourishments, as inferred from Argus video imagery

Ruessink

Grinten

Vonhögen-Peeters

et al. 2012

NCK-days 2012 : Crossing Borders in Coastal Research : Jubilee Conference Proceedings

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“…Bowman and Goldsmith, 1983;Van Enckevort et al, 2004). This has long been interpreted as self-organisation at the scale of the individual bar and the absence of interaction between sandbars.…”

Section: Observationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The development of crescentic sandbars has been found to develop during low-energy, accretive wave conditions (e.g. Ranasinghe et al, 2004;Van Enckevort et al, 2004); a so-called downstate sequence (Wright and Short, 1984). Their alongshore variability is associated with wave-driven circulation patterns that consist of weak onshore flow over the horns and strong offshore flow through the bays.…”

Section: Alongshore Sandbar Variabilitymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Van Enckevort et al, 2004;Ruessink et al, 2007a), spatially limited to (an alongshore transect of) the inner bar (e.g. Lippmann and Holman, 1990;Shand et al, 2003;Sénéchal et al, 2009) or based on data acquired at different locations or at irregular intervals (Short and Aagaard, 1993;Castelle et al, 2007).…”

Section: Alongshore Sandbar Variabilitymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Numerous observations and long-term monitoring of the nearshore zone have revealed the wide range of shapes that nearshore sandbars may attain (e.g. Wright and Short, 1984;Lippmann and Holman, 1990;Van Enckevort et al, 2004;Ranasinghe et al, 2004). Despite each observed sandbar configuration being unique, and the continuous change in shape under the influence of waves and currents, a certain regularity in sandbar morphology has been observed.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

Morphological coupling in multiple sandbar systems – a review

Price

Ruessink

Castelle³

2014

Earth Surf. Dynam.

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Abstract. Subtidal sandbars often exhibit alongshore variable patterns, such as crescentic plan shapes and rip channels. While the initial formation of these patterns is reasonably well understood, the morphodynamic mechanisms underlying their subsequent finite-amplitude behaviour have been examined far less extensively. This behaviour concerns, among other aspects, the coupling of alongshore variable patterns in an inner bar to similar patterns in a more seaward bar, and the destruction of crescentic patterns. This review aims to present the current state of knowledge on the finite-amplitude behaviour of crescentic sandbars, with a focus on morphological coupling in double sandbar systems. In this context we include results from our recent study, based on a combination of remote-sensing observations, numerical modelling and data-model integration. Morphological coupling is an inherent property of double sandbar systems, where the inner bar may attain a type of morphology not found in single bar systems. Coupling is governed by water depth variability along the outer-bar crest and by various wave characteristics, including the offshore wave height and angle of incidence. In recent research, the role of the angle of wave incidence for sandbar morphodynamics has received more attention. Numerical modelling results have demonstrated that the angle of wave incidence is crucial to the flow pattern, sediment transport, and thus the emerging morphology of the coupled inner bar. Moreover, crescentic patterns predominantly vanish under highangle wave conditions, highlighting the role of alongshore currents in straightening sandbars and challenging the traditional conception that crescentic patterns vanish under high-energy, erosive wave conditions only.

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Surf zone bathymetry and circulation predictions via data assimilation of remote sensing observations

Wilson

Özkan-Haller

Holman

et al. 2014

J. Geophys. Res. Oceans

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Bathymetry is a major factor in determining nearshore and surf zone wave transformation and currents, yet is often poorly known. This can lead to inaccuracy in numerical model predictions. Here bathymetry is estimated as an uncertain parameter in a data assimilation system, using the ensemble Kalman filter (EnKF). The system is tested by assimilating several remote sensing data products, which were collected in September 2010 as part of a field experiment at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, NC. The results show that by assimilating remote sensing data alone, nearshore bathymetry can be estimated with good accuracy, and nearshore forecasts (e.g., the prediction of a rip current) can be improved. This suggests an application where a nearshore forecasting model could be implemented using only remote sensing data, without the explicit need for in situ data collection.

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Beach Wizard: Nearshore bathymetry estimation through assimilation of model computations and remote observations

Cited by 120 publications

References 31 publications

Nearshore evolution at Noordwijk (NL) in response to nourishments, as inferred from Argus video imagery

Nearshore evolution at Noordwijk (NL) in response to nourishments, as inferred from Argus video imagery

Morphological coupling in multiple sandbar systems – a review

Surf zone bathymetry and circulation predictions via data assimilation of remote sensing observations

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