Beach Changes Based on Daily Measurements of Four Cape Cod Beaches

Zeigler, John M.; Tuttle, Sherwood D.

doi:10.1086/626772

Cited by 19 publications

(4 citation statements)

References 6 publications

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“…Respective average values at the Camp Pendleton line were 0.5 foot (Kf) and 0.4 foot (Jf). The values compare with daily net fluctuations of 0.2-0.3 foot on Cape Cod beaches (Zeigler and Tuttle, 1961).…”

Section: Deposition Aed Erosion On the Lower Foreshore Time Lag In Pementioning

confidence: 89%

Interactions of the beach-ocean-atmosphere system at Virginia Beach, Virginia / by W. Harrison and W.C. Krumbein.

Harrison¹,

Krumbein²

1964

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A number of interactions among beach variables are investigated by sequential linear multiregression analysis, as programmed for highspeed computers. The study includes the influence of beach geometry, wave characteristics, tidal effects, and local wind conditions on the velocity of longshore currents, deposition and erosion on the lower foreshore, and the response of grain size and beach slope to shore processes. Results show that if about six variables are segregated out of any group of about a dozen, these six account for essentially all of the variability that is explained by all twelve. Thus, the regression method serves to condense relatively large data matrices to more compact form. The most-influential combinations of variables arbitrarily designated as "process" variables are in general agreement with significant variables of wave-tank experimentation, and substantiate intuitive judgments regarding the relative importance of these variables on natural beaches. The results suggest that certain additional variables, seldom examined under controlled conditions, be studied in combination with variables normally examined in wave tanks. The combination of six variables found to be most influential in the determination of longshore-current velocity in the study area is made up of wave period, wave height, lower-foreshore slope, wind velocity onshore, wind velocity offshore, and angle of wave approach, in order of decreasing importance. The significance of wind velocity on and offshore is believed to lie mainly in the ability of the wind to alter the form of incoming swells. A special regression analysis for quadratic effects reveals that water density is highly non-linear in its effect on longshore-current velocity. Bottom slope in the shoaling-wave zone, some 250 feet seaward of the breakers, is found to be controlled primarily by average mean grain size of the bottom materials, wave period, wave length, wave steepness, water depth, and tidal-current velocity. This combination exerts its

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Section: Deposition Aed Erosion On the Lower Foreshore Time Lag In Pementioning

confidence: 89%

Interactions of the beach-ocean-atmosphere system at Virginia Beach, Virginia / by W. Harrison and W.C. Krumbein.

Harrison¹,

Krumbein²

1964

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“…They also reported that of the 10 sections between Aldeburgh and Southwold surveyed on the east coast of England on 14 occasions, 67 per cent of the 130 cases showed that the upper and lower foreshore reacted in the same direction; 28 per cent differed between the upper and lower foreshore while the remaining 5 per cent were unclear. Zeigler and Tuttle (1961), in their study of the sand and shingle beaches of Cape Cod, found that it was the mid and lower sections of the foreshore which changed the most with a maximum height range of about 3 m. Gleason et al (1975), recorded changes in the vertical sweep zone of between 1 and 2 m though this value could be as high as 6 m in the confined pocket beaches of Start Bay. The Forcados Beach in Nigeria recorded a maximum sweep zone change of 1.95 m at profile 7 (see Figure 4).…”

Section: Relationship Between the Upper And Lower Foreshorementioning

confidence: 98%

Spatial and seasonal aspects of shoreline changes at Forcados Beach, Nigeria

Oyegun

1991

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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The influence of the seasons of the year on beach changes is well documented in the literature. One generalization which has emerged is that beaches are 'combed down' in winter and 'built up' in summer. Some workers have disagreed with this dictum because field evidence does not necessarily support the assertion.This study, located in the humid tropics, shows, with the aid of graduated pegs emplaced perpendicularly to the shoreline, that the magnitude and frequency of beach changes are greater in the wet, than in the dry season. Furthermore, there is a net loss of beach materials in the wet season and a net gain in the dry season, even though erosion and accretion occur throughout the year with no statistically significant difference in their magnitudes.Erosion prevails at the northern half of the beach while accretion is dominant to the south. The upper and lower foreshore zones are more prone to changes than the mid-tide level.

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“…After some practice one is able to pick the limits of the bars from continuous echo With these criteria and Figure 4 as guides one can determine the shape of the profile of erosion from measured profiles. We measured hundreds of profiles across these beaches between 1953 and 1962 (Zeigler et al 1959, andTuttle 1961) and had on some occasions when the beach sand cover was thin and the underlying glacial deposits exposed, established the absolute elevation of points on the profile of erosion (Circle on Figure 5). The more seaward end of the profile of erosion beneath the nearshore and offshore bars was established by drawing a line between the interbar troughs.…”

Section: Fig 3 Geographical Distribution Of Rate Of Erosion: Outer mentioning

confidence: 99%

Residence Time of Sand Composing the Beaches and Bars of Outer Cape Cod

Zeigler

Tuttle

Giese

et al. 1964

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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When a grain of sand is delivered to the sea by erosion it begins a journey being transported along beaches or bars, or offshore by waves and currents. The history of this journey can be extremely complex for the grain might spend a few seconds in one place and many years trapped in another before being released again for travel. It is therefore important at the outset to place some limitations upon our study. Firstly, our time scale is limited to the past seventy years, the time over which data were gathered. Secondly, the geographical position is limited to a strip of the east coast of Cape Cod 29,400 yards in length (Figure 1), extending seaward to where water depth is about forty feet. After a grain of sediment leaves this area we are no longer concerned with it. We define residence time as the average number of years a grain of eroded sediment is likely to spend in this prescribed area before it is transported elsewhere. We will further try to show that sediment takes a preferred path, some of it moving along the beach and some along the bars. It makes no difference to us if specific environments share grains; that is to say, some material will be on the beach one day and on the bar the next. In the end those grains which tend to be more stable in the beach environment will spend more time there and will travel with a characteristic velocity which is different from the velocity of those grains which are in hydrodynamic equilibrium on bars. The method used to compute residence time involves volume stability. We measured the volume of the beaches and bars in the definition area and assumed that these volumes have not changed within the time limits of our study. We also measured the yearly addition of sediment to the area. In-as-much as there is neither gain nor loss of the average volume of sand -built features, i.e., the beaches and bars, sand must be moving out of the study area at the same rate it is being introduced. Therefore, the residence time in years is the average volume of a beach or bar divided by the yearly volume of sediment added by erosion to the beach or bar.

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Beach Changes Based on Daily Measurements of Four Cape Cod Beaches

Cited by 19 publications

References 6 publications

Interactions of the beach-ocean-atmosphere system at Virginia Beach, Virginia / by W. Harrison and W.C. Krumbein.

Interactions of the beach-ocean-atmosphere system at Virginia Beach, Virginia / by W. Harrison and W.C. Krumbein.

Spatial and seasonal aspects of shoreline changes at Forcados Beach, Nigeria

Residence Time of Sand Composing the Beaches and Bars of Outer Cape Cod

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