Basic Coastal Engineering

Factors Controlling Rates of Bluff Recession at Two Sites on Lake Michigan

“…Others keep propagating to nearshore and reaching the shoreline. In cases where the beach is narrow (e.g., times of high lake level or after erosion episode) a much greater proportion of wave energy reaches the bluff, causing erosion (Sorensen 1997). The continuous onslaught of waves serves to erode and wash away the intact, exposed bluff face and to remove slumped material at the base of the bluff.…”

“…Changes in barometric pressure can add to this effect. The wind-induced setup is estimated from a two-dimensional control volume approach (Sorensen 1997). To estimate this effect at the study sites, the fetch lengths associated with all wind directions impacting the sites were determined (Brown 2000).…”

“…Wave power is the wave energy per unit time transmitted in the direction of wave propagation (Sorensen 1997). Amin (1991) found a significant positive correlation between toe recession and deepwater wave power based on weekly recession measurements at peglines along a Lake Erie bluff shoreline site.…”

Water-surface oscillations in channels with axi-symmetric cavities

“…Studies on emerged groyne fields (Uijttewaal et al 2001, Wirtz 2004, Weitbrecht 2004, McCoy et al 2006 address mass exchange between the main channel and groyne fields, sedimentation of groyne fields, pollutant transport phenomena and navigation. In studies on harbour hydrodynamics (Wilson 1972, Sorensen 1978, van Rijn 1994, USACE 2002, the importance of harbour geometry and boundary conditions on the formation of unsuitable seiches in harbours is highlighted. The knowledge gained by the aforementioned research studies may be summarized as follows:…”

Real-Time Simulation of Surface Gravity Ocean Waves Based on the TMA Spectrum

“…According to the random linear wave theory [16,17,18,19,20], directional wave spectrum E(f, δ) is given by…”