“…Variations in dune height and localized shoreline response is well documented (e.g. Elko et al, 2002;Schupp et al, 2006;Stockdon et al, 2007), but the source of the variation is not well understood. Localized coastal response can be forced by wave refraction over the inner-shelf bathymetry (Demarest and Leatherman, 1985;Kraft et al, 1987;Pilkey et al, 1993;Riggs et al, 1995;Schwab et al, 2000;McNinch, 2004;Browder and McNinch, 2006;Schupp et al, 2006;Stockdon et al, 2007).…”