Automatic Sensor-Based Detection and Classification of Climbing Activities

Boulanger, Jérémie; Seifert, Ludovic; Hérault, Romain; Coeurjolly, Jean‐François

doi:10.1109/jsen.2015.2481511

Cited by 29 publications

(48 citation statements)

References 19 publications

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“…A substantial challenge, in future research is in measuring exploration at different levels of analysis with respect to performance, both, in technically manageable and theoretically consistent ways (Seifert et al, 2014d ; Orth et al, 2016 ; Schmidt et al, 2016 ). For instance, whilst, performatory and exploratory actions are predominantly assessed by considering overt action at the limbs, such characteristics are distinguishable across other levels, such as overall organization of the body (Russell et al, 2012 ; Seifert et al, 2014a ), postural regulation (Boulanger et al, 2016 ), visual search (Nieuwenhuys et al, 2008 ) and at more refined levels of control at hand-hold interaction (Fuss and Niegl, 2008 ). Identification of these movement features is a clear research challenge for future work.…”

Section: Variability In Activity States and Their Functionalitymentioning

confidence: 99%

Analysis of Relations between Spatiotemporal Movement Regulation and Performance of Discrete Actions Reveals Functionality in Skilled Climbing

et al. 2017

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In this review of research on climbing expertise, we focus on different measures of climbing performance, including spatiotemporal measures related to fluency and activity states (i.e., discrete actions), adopted by climbers for achieving overall performance goals of getting to the end of a route efficiently and safely. Currently, a broad range of variables have been reported, however, many of these fail to capture how climbers adapt to a route whilst climbing. We argue that spatiotemporal measures should be considered concurrently with evaluation of activity states (such as reaching or exploring) in order gain a more comprehensive picture of how climbers successfully adapt to a route. Spatial and temporal movement measures taken at the hip are a traditional means of assessing efficiency of climbing behaviors. More recently, performatory and exploratory actions of the limbs have been used in combination with spatiotemporal indicators, highlighting the influence of limb states on climbing efficiency and skill transfer. However, only a few studies have attempted to combine spatiotemporal and activity state measures taken during route climbing. This review brings together existing approaches for observing climbing skill at performance outcome (i.e., spatiotemporal assessments) and process (i.e., limb activity states) levels of analysis. Skill level is associated with a spatially efficient route progression and lower levels of immobility. However, more difficult hold architecture designs require significantly greater mobility and more complex movement patterning to maintain performance. Different forms of functional, or goal-supportive, movement variability, including active recovery and hold exploration, have been implicated as important adaptations to physiological and environmental dynamics that emerge during the act of climbing. Indeed, recently it has also been shown that, when climbing on new routes, efficient exploration can improve the transfer of skill. This review provides new insights into how climbing performance and related actions can be quantified to better capture the functional role of movement variability.

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Section: Variability In Activity States and Their Functionalitymentioning

confidence: 99%

Analysis of Relations between Spatiotemporal Movement Regulation and Performance of Discrete Actions Reveals Functionality in Skilled Climbing

et al. 2017

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“… Example for one participant of the climbing states time series for the right hand (R. hand), the left hand (L. hand), the right foot (R. foot), the left foot (L. foot) and the full body state based on the decision tree designed by Boulanger et al ( 2016 ). The four panels exemplified (by red dots) the lower hold exploratory movements on the H route (Left) than on the Dual route (Right) , and the decrease of hold exploratory movements from trial 1 (Top) to trial 4 (Down) .…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Using a novel method developed by Boulanger et al ( 2016 ), we collected data from the four limbs and hip direction (3D vector in Earth reference frame) using inertial measurement units (IMU) located on the wrists, feet, and the hip (Figure 3 ).…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…A multiple sensors-based analysis was conducted to detect the different actions of the climber (Boulanger et al, 2016 ). Using the data derived from the multiple sensors, five climbing states were identified depending on whether the limbs and/or hip were moving or stationary (Boulanger et al, 2016 ): stationary (i.e., all limbs were immobile and the hip was immobile), postural regulation (i.e., all limbs were immobile and the hip was moving), hold exploration (i.e., at least one limb was moving and the hip was immobile), hold change (i.e., last hold grasping before body motion), performatory movements (i.e., at least one limb was moving and the hip was moving). The climbing states identified by the method of Boulanger and colleagues were then amended for the purpose of the current study as follows: (i) The stationary state represented the state when the climber was not moving at all.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Affordance Realization in Climbing: Learning and Transfer

et al. 2018

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The aim of this study was to investigate how the affordances of an indoor climbing wall changed for intermediate climbers following a period of practice during which hold orientation was manipulated within a learning and transfer protocol. The learning protocol consisted of four sessions, in which eight climbers randomly ascended three different routes of fixed absolute difficulty (5c on the French scale), as fluently as possible. All three routes were 10.3 m in height and composed of 20 hand-holds at the same locations on an artificial climbing wall; only hold orientations were altered: (i) a horizontal-edge route (H) was designed to afford horizontal hold grasping, (ii) a vertical-edge route (V) afforded vertical hold grasping, and (iii), a double-edge route (D) was designed to afford both horizontal and vertical hold grasping. Five inertial measurement units (IMU) (3D accelerometer, 3D gyroscope, 3D magnetometer) were attached to the hip, feet and forearms to analyze the vertical acceleration and direction (3D unitary vector) of each limb and hip in ambient space during the entire ascent. Segmentation and classification processes supported detection of movement and stationary phases for each IMU. Depending on whether limbs and/or hip were moving, a decision tree distinguished four states of behavior: stationary (absence of limb and hip motion), hold exploration (absence of hip motion but at least one limb in motion), hip movement (hip in motion but absence of limb motion) and global motion (hip in motion and at least one limb in motion). Results showed that with practice, the learners decreased the relative duration of hold exploration, suggesting that they improved affordance perception of hold grasp-ability. The number of performatory movements also decreased as performance increased during learning sessions, confirming that participants' climbing efficacy improved as a function of practice. Last, the results were more marked for the H route, while the D route led to longer relative stationary duration and a shorter relative duration of performatory states. Together, these findings emphasized the benefit of manipulating task constraints to promote safe exploration during learning, which is particularly relevant in extreme sports involving climbing tasks.

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“…Tonoli et al employed an acceleration sensor which is integrated into the harness to identify and monitor falling in rock climbing using a Kalman filter [72]. Similarly, Boulanger et al applied machine learning to classify climbing activities from multiple accelerometers [5].…”

Section: Augmenting Climbing With Technologymentioning

confidence: 99%

The Role of Physical Props in VR Climbing Environments

Schulz

Alexandrovsky

Putze

et al. 2019

Proceedings of the 2019 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems

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Dealing with fear of falling is a challenge in sport climbing. Virtual reality (VR) research suggests that using physical and reality-based interaction increases the presence in VR. In this paper, we present a study that investigates the influence of physical props on presence, stress and anxiety in a VR climbing environment involving whole body movement. To help climbers overcoming fear of falling, we compared three different conditions: Climbing in reality at 10 m height, physical climbing in VR (with props attached to the climbing wall) and virtual climbing in VR using game controllers. From subjective reports and biosignals, our results show that climbing with props in VR increases the anxiety and sense of realism in VR for sport climbing. This suggests that VR in combination with physical props are an effective simulation setup to induce the sense of height. CCS CONCEPTS • Human-centered computing → Virtual reality; Haptic devices; Empirical studies in HCI.

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Automatic Sensor-Based Detection and Classification of Climbing Activities

Cited by 29 publications

References 19 publications

Analysis of Relations between Spatiotemporal Movement Regulation and Performance of Discrete Actions Reveals Functionality in Skilled Climbing

Analysis of Relations between Spatiotemporal Movement Regulation and Performance of Discrete Actions Reveals Functionality in Skilled Climbing

Affordance Realization in Climbing: Learning and Transfer

The Role of Physical Props in VR Climbing Environments

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