“…The first hinges on physicaldynamic principles, utilizing wave numerical models that meticulously simulate the birth, movement, and fading of ocean waves through the computational resolution of the underlying wave dynamic equations. These models incorporate a suite of physical processes such as wave generation, spectral distribution, propagation, nonlinear inter-wave interactions, dissipation mechanisms, and the effects of refraction and diffraction (Zhao et al, 2014;Qiao et al, 2016;Bennis et al, 2020;Wang et al, 2021;Bitner-Gregersen et al, 2022;Saavedra et al, 2023). Prominent among such numerical models are the Wave Watch III (WW3) (Tolman, 2009;Amarouche et al, 2023), the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) system (Booij et al, 1999;Ris et al, 1999), and the MASUM model (Yong-zeng et al, 2005).…”