Analysis of Zero Waste Patternmaking Approaches for Application to Apparel

McKinney, Ellen; Cho, Sunhyung; Eike, Rachel; Sanders, Eulanda A.

doi:10.1007/978-3-030-37929-2_2

Cited by 6 publications

(4 citation statements)

References 24 publications

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“…• The strip grading method promotes mainstream fashion integration of zero waste patternmaking by providing a solution to the common problem that zero waste patterns only work for one size (McKinney et al, 2020). It also provides an avenue to reduce waste by only producing garments in sizes ordered.…”

Section: Virtual Conferencementioning

confidence: 99%

“…Zero waste patternmaking wastes no fabric (Rissanen & McQuillan, 2016), either through whole cloth methods or interlocking pattern pieces (Townsend & Mills, 2013). Unfortunately, zero waste patterns often only create one garment size (McKinney et al, 2020). The inability to execute zero waste patterns in a range of sizes is an obstacle to integrating zero waste designs into mainstream fashion (Carrico & Kim, 2014;Saeidi & Wimberley, 2018).…”

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Exploration of the Applicability of a Zero Waste Pattern Grading Method to Childrenswear

McKinney

2022

Breaking Boundaries

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Contextual Review. Fabric waste from traditional garment manufacturing damages our natural environment by adding waste to landfills and by creating emissions from transporting the waste to the landfills (Carrico & Kim, 2014). On average, 15% of fabric is wasted when the fabric is cut due to spaces between the pattern pieces in the marker (McQuillan & Rissanen, 2011;Townsend & Mills, 2013). Zero waste patternmaking wastes no fabric (Rissanen & McQuillan, 2016), either through whole cloth methods or interlocking pattern pieces (Townsend & Mills, 2013). Unfortunately, zero waste patterns often only create one garment size (McKinney et al., 2020). The inability to execute zero waste patterns in a range of sizes is an obstacle to integrating zero waste designs into mainstream fashion (Carrico & Kim, 2014;Saeidi & Wimberley, 2018). Carrico ( 2019) developed a method for resizing garments made from zero waste patterns using narrow fabrics and trims to address this challenge. Carrico (2020) demonstrated the application of this method to a women's blouse and skirt. However, further work is needed to test the applicability of this method to other types of garments in other categories. Design Concept. The purpose of this creative scholarship was to test the narrow fabric sizing method for zero waste patterns (Carrico, 2019; 2020) on a childrenswear garment. The children's size range includes sizes 3, 4, 5, 6, and 6x (girls) /7 (boys) (Joseph-Armstrong, 2010). In this size range, grading proportions differ significantly from women's sizes, as there is proportionally greater length measurement growth between sizes than in women's wear (Joseph-Armstrong 2010). Research questions were: (1) could a zero waste childrenswear pattern be graded into all the sizes in the range using fabric strips? and (2) would the method be suitable for manufacturing? Aesthetic Properties. Leafy batik fabrics in nature-inspired blues and greens were selected to connect with the sustainable goals of preserving natural resources. Size gradation and repetition of diagonal lines created rhythm and movement. Process, Technique, and Execution. Throughout the rigorous process of applying Carrico's (2019;2020) resizing method to a zero waste childrenswear style, sustainability and manufacturability were evaluated and documented with images and notes (60 files total). First, a classic dress style, which would have a long lifespan (WRAP, 2013), was selected. Next, size 3 bodice and skirt sloper patterns were drafted (Joseph-Armstrong, 2010) and used to flat pattern an A-line sleeveless dress. Then, multiple sketches and mini paper patterns were created to determine cutting line placement for grading through strip insertion at necessary locations (Handford, 2003). The researcher found that inserted diagonal strips provided grading equal to two-thirds of their width in horizontal and vertical directions simultaneously. This

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Section: Virtual Conferencementioning

confidence: 99%

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confidence: 99%

Exploration of the Applicability of a Zero Waste Pattern Grading Method to Childrenswear

McKinney

2022

Breaking Boundaries

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“…In the apparel and textiles sectors overseas, various manufacturers and companies also aim for different sustainability improvements to reduce environmental impact: sustainable consumptions and productions (Jørgensen & Jensen, 2012;Fletcher, 2014), reducing environmental waste through pattern making approaches (McKinney, Cho, Zhang, Eike, & Sanders, 2020;Rissanne, 2008), utilizing the innovative technology to recycle fibers (He, Wei, Liu, & Xue, 2015;Teijin CRS, 2007), and educating consumers about the lifecycle of cotton products (Blue Jeans Go Green ™, 2006). In 2016, the United States recycling rate was less than 20 % of overall clothing waste, approximately 12.8 million tons.…”

Section: Textile Recycling In Apparel Sector In Overseasmentioning

confidence: 99%

Untitled

2021

ijcs

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“…Despite the environmental benefits, zero-waste pattern design, as an apparel production approach, is not without its challenges. An analysis of 64 publicly available zero-waste patterns revealed the following six key issues: (1) the patterns often only work for one garment size, (2) the patterns only work for the intended textile width, (3) edge finishes are not considered in the pattern, (4) the pattern pieces are off-grain, (5) the patterns are not engineered for mass production, and (6) the patterns have insufficient directions [10]. Until an approach is created that streamlines zero-waste into a fully executable, integrative process in mainstream fashion, environmental and sustainability impacts will be limited [5].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

An Inquiry into Gradable Zero-Waste Apparel Design

et al. 2022

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The implementation of standardized grading production practices within the mass market has been challenging for scholars experimenting with zero-waste apparel design. The purpose of this research was to test the efficacy of the Carrico Zero-waste Banded Grading (CZWBG) technique, which utilizes bands inserted in strategic locations as a method of grading zero-waste patterns across various consumer categories. An additional purpose was to evaluate the ways in which this grading approach affected the aesthetic outcomes of garments across a size run, and to determine whether this method affected the overall design process of the designers involved. Through experimental research design, six design scholars successfully tested and incorporated the CZWBG technique in zero-waste one or two-piece apparel item(s), subsequently developing three sizes in an industry-specified size range for their product category. Each design was cut from zero-waste patterns in a mid-range size and graded up and down one–two sizes using an industry-standardized grading scale. The grading was achieved by varying the widths and lengths of strategically inserted bands of fabric or trim. The designers utilized various grading methods, textiles, pattern development methods, and size runs, showing that the CZWBG technique can successfully be applied across multiple consumer categories in the apparel industry.

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Analysis of Zero Waste Patternmaking Approaches for Application to Apparel

Cited by 6 publications

References 24 publications

Exploration of the Applicability of a Zero Waste Pattern Grading Method to Childrenswear

Exploration of the Applicability of a Zero Waste Pattern Grading Method to Childrenswear

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An Inquiry into Gradable Zero-Waste Apparel Design

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