Analysis and catalogue of sneaker waves in the US Pacific Northwest between 2005 and 2017

García‐Medina, Gabriel; Özkan-Haller, H. Tuba; Ruggiero, Peter; Holman, Robert A.; Nicolini, T.

doi:10.1007/s11069-018-3403-z

Cited by 14 publications

(14 citation statements)

References 29 publications

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“…Similarly to freak waves, the waves on a beach whose runup height is two times larger than the significant runup height (R/R s ≥ 2) are called freak runups. On gentle beaches, such freak runups are manifested as sudden floods and may result in human injuries and fatalities [8][9][10]. Figure 7 shows probability distribution functions of large runup heights (R ≥ 0.7R s ), for narrow-band and wide-band spectra, for different nonlinearities.…”

Section: Data Analysis and Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Therefore, for narrow-banded waves, gentle beaches reduce the number of freak events as compared to the sea coastal zone, and work as a 'low-pass filter' for extreme wave heights. This may explain why freak events on a beach are so unexpected [8][9][10]. However, for wide-banded waves, such an effect has not been observed and the probability of freak events on a beach was similar to or even larger than the one in the sea coastal zone.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 98%

“…Also, some individual waves at the coast may be unexpected, extreme and hazardous. This regards sneaker waves or freak wave runups [8][9][10]. Such extreme events at the coast often lead to human injuries and fatalities, when people are washed off to the sea from a gentle beach or from coastal rocks or sea walls, and damage to coastal structures.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach

Abdalazeez

Didenkulova

Dutykh

et al. 2020

Water

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The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the section of a constant depth, which is matched with the beach of constant slope. To address different levels of nonlinearity, time series with five different significant wave heights are considered. The selected wave parameters allow for also seeing the effects of wave breaking on wave statistics. The total physical time of each simulated time-series is 1000 h (~360,000 wave periods). The statistics of calculated wave runup heights are discussed with respect to the wave nonlinearity, wave breaking and the bandwidth of the incoming wave field. The conditional Weibull distribution is suggested as a model for the description of extreme runup heights and the assessment of extreme inundations.

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Section: Data Analysis and Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 98%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach

Abdalazeez

Didenkulova

Dutykh

et al. 2020

Water

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“…Many of the beaches where sneaker wave incidents have been reported are backed by a berm and have a steep foreshore slope (García‐Medina et al, ). In some of the reported incidents, a large runup unexpectedly reached the berm.…”

Section: Rogue Characteristics Of Runup: Bilinear Beach Casementioning

confidence: 99%

“…Since the distribution and occurrence of these types of runups are still not well understood, the objective of this paper is to investigate these unusual runup events generated from surfzone and swash processes. Furthermore, only one of the eight sneaker wave events that occurred along the open coast reported in García-Medina et al (2018) occurred during falling tides. Thus, since changing tides might also have an effect on the largest runup events, this is also investigated in this paper.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Runups of Unusual Size: Rogueness and Variability of Swash

et al. 2020

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The occurrence of swash larger than those predicted by the Rayleigh distribution is examined using a phase‐resolved numerical model. Multiple realizations of spectral boundary conditions and beach configurations are considered in the analysis. Planar beaches characterized by surf similarity parameters between 0.3 and 0.6 are found to be more likely to produce unusually large swash. Maximum runup is found to correlate with the maximum infragravity (IG) wave height at the location of swash initiation, the landwardmost continuously wet point. The analysis is extended to beaches with bilinear profiles, where the foreshore slope is steeper than the shoaling slope. It is found that the still water level plays a controlling role in the magnitude of large swash. For these beaches it is found that the still water level with respect to the beach toe influences both the IG and shortwave height at swash initiation. Similar to the planar beach case, swash is found to be maximized when the sum of both IG and shortwave height is maximum; this occurs at toe depths 2–3 times the offshore significant wave height.

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Sudden wave flooding on steep rock shores: a clear but hidden danger

Kalisch,

Lagona,

Roeber

2023

Nat Hazards

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It is shown that very steep coastal profiles can give rise to unexpectedly large wave events at the coast. We conduct a statistical analysis of runs from a nearshore Boussinesq-type model to demonstrate that under certain wave conditions, which a casual observer would perceive as calm, the likelihood of large run-up events is uncharacteristically high. The data computed by the Boussinesq-type model show that sea states with lower overall wave steepness favor higher run-up. Under these wave conditions, more of the available wave energy reaches the shore, since less wave breaking occurs, which can create a false sense of security for beach-goers.

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Analysis and catalogue of sneaker waves in the US Pacific Northwest between 2005 and 2017

Cited by 14 publications

References 29 publications

Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach

Extreme Inundation Statistics on a Composite Beach

Runups of Unusual Size: Rogueness and Variability of Swash

Sudden wave flooding on steep rock shores: a clear but hidden danger

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