An interpretation of wave refraction and its influence on foreshore sediment distribution

Joevivek, V.; Chandrasekar, N.; Jayangondaperumal, Ramakrishnan; Thakur, V. C.; Purniema, K. Shree

doi:10.1007/s13131-019-1446-y

Cited by 8 publications

(4 citation statements)

References 32 publications

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“…This process can lead to significant erosion in a particular area when compared to the surrounding region. The convergence of incoming waves, as noted by Joevivek et al (2019), can result in high-energy wave conditions and subsequent erosion. This conclusion was further reinforced by Vann Jones et al (2018), who stated that erosion in headland areas tends to be more significant than in bay areas due to variations in the transfer of wave energy that occur in these distinct shoreline features.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The westerly and easterly winds will adjust the wind pattern and wave generation. As stated by Joevivek et al (2019) andSeenipandi et al (2013), the monsoon can cause differences in the direction of wave motion and trigger current movements that affect sediment shifts. The more confined location of the Bungah coast implies a reduction in wind and wave speed and direction deviation compared to the same wind and waves that occur in more open oceanic water areas such as the Ujung Pangkah coast.…”

Section: Seasonal Analysis Of Wave For the 2010-2019 Decadementioning

confidence: 94%

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The Coastline Change Pattern of Gresik Beach around the Madura Strait, Indonesia

Prasita,

Bintoro,

Permatasari

et al. 2023

IJG

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The coastal region is characterized by dynamic changes in its coastline, which can be attributed to various factors. However, the main causes of change along the Gresik coast have yet to be thoroughly studied. Therefore, this research aims to examine the patterns of coastline change along the Gresik coast around the Madura Strait and the influence of wind-generated waves on them. Specifically, the study focuses on four coastal zones: Ujung Pangkah, Sidayu, Bungah, and Manyar districts. The research utilizes satellite imagery and geographic information systems (GIS) as well as methods for calculating ocean waves to analyze the coastline change patterns. The study also examines the impact of ocean wave energy on coastal abrasion and accretion. The findings revealed that the accretion rate in the study area was higher than the erosion rate. The accretion in the coastal area of Gresik is attributed to the flow of the Bengawan Solo River, which carries sediment from upstream. The accretion and abrasion areas for the entire period from 2002 to 2019 were 1063.16 ha and 425.23 ha, respectively. The study also found that the mangrove areas exhibit a higher rate of accretion than abrasion, indicating their potential as a reliable indicator of the effects of sea level rise resulting from global warming.This study revealed that the northern part of Ujung Pangkah District and Bungah District experienced the highest abrasion patterns, whereas no abrasion was observed in Sidayu District. Between 2002 and 2019, the abrasion areas in Ujung Pangkah and Bungah districts totaled 243.96 ha and 178.29 ha, respectively. Wind-generated waves were likely the primary cause of the abrasion in these areas, though other factors may also have contributed to coastline changes. It is essential to consider these factors for effective coastal management in the region.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Seasonal Analysis Of Wave For the 2010-2019 Decadementioning

confidence: 94%

The Coastline Change Pattern of Gresik Beach around the Madura Strait, Indonesia

Prasita,

Bintoro,

Permatasari

et al. 2023

IJG

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“…After soaking it in water, the samples were perturbed by a mechanical stirrer to disaggregate them and to withdraw the clay fractions. Further, the organic and inorganic contents were removed by the addition of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide (H 2 O 2 ) and 10% of Hydrochloric acid (HCl) [6] . Coning and quartering method was employed to extract 100 g of pre-treated sands from the each sample.…”

Section: Data Experimental Design Materials and Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Data on nearshore wave process and surficial beach deposits, central Tamil Nadu coast, India

Joevivek¹,

Chandrasekar²

2017

Data in Brief

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The chronicles of nearshore morphology and surficial beach deposits provide valuable information about the nature of the beach condition and the depositional environment. It imparts an understanding about the spatial and temporal relationship of nearshore waves and its influence over the distribution of beach sediments. This article contains data about wave and sediment dynamics of the ten sandy beaches along the central Tamil Nadu coast, India. This present dataset comprises nearshore wave parameters, breaker wave type, beach morphodynamic state, grain size distribution and weight percentage of heavy and light mineral distribution. The dataset will figure out the beach morphology and hydrodynamic condition with respect to the different monsoonal season. This will act as a field reference to realize the coastal dynamics in an open sea condition. The nearshore entities were obtained from the intensive field survey between January 2011 and December 2011, while characteristics of beach sediments are examined by the chemical process in the laboratory environment.

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“…The slope of each line varies, indicating different sorting degrees, and the points where the lines intersect are called truncation points. Since then, plotting the log probability cumulative frequency curve of grain size has been frequently employed to evaluate sedimentary environments [19][20][21][22].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Identification of the Sediment Movement Mechanism via Grain Size and Shape: A Case Study of a Beach in Eastern Hainan Island in South China

Cheng,

Chen,

Zhu

et al. 2023

Water

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This paper used dynamic image analysis (DIA) to analyze the grain size and shape data of beach surface sediments in Bao’ding Bay, eastern Hainan Island, China, and explored the effects of sediment transport modes and beach morphology on the grain size–shape trend curves. This paper adopted a method of combining grain size cumulative frequency curves and grain size–shape trend curves to identify three sediment transport modes: suspension, saltation, and traction, and analyzed the characteristics of the grain size–shape trend curves under different beach morphologies (reflective, intermediate, and dissipative). This paper found that the grain size–shape trend curves can effectively indicate the sediment transport modes and improve the accuracy of subpopulation division; the grain size–shape trend curves showed different distribution characteristics in the cross-shore and longshore directions, which are closely related to the beach’s morphology and sediment transport direction. This paper provides a new method and idea for studying beach sediment transport and sedimentary environment using sediment grain size and shape data.

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An interpretation of wave refraction and its influence on foreshore sediment distribution

Cited by 8 publications

References 32 publications

The Coastline Change Pattern of Gresik Beach around the Madura Strait, Indonesia

The Coastline Change Pattern of Gresik Beach around the Madura Strait, Indonesia

Data on nearshore wave process and surficial beach deposits, central Tamil Nadu coast, India

Identification of the Sediment Movement Mechanism via Grain Size and Shape: A Case Study of a Beach in Eastern Hainan Island in South China

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