The treatment of wool under anhydrous (non‐swelling) conditions with potassium tert‐butoxide dissolved in tert‐butanol was studied. The aim was to confine reaction with the alkaline reagent to the outer surface of the fibre, thus preventing whole‐fibre degradation. It appears that the a/koxide specifically reacts with, or cleans, the extreme exterior of the epicuticle membrane, removing lipid material but leaving the chemically inert epicuticle intact. The treatment increases inter‐fibre and inter‐yarn friction, tensile strength and wettability. The absence of whole‐fibre degradation is shown by the unchanged dye uptake and abrasion resistance. The apparent specificity of the reaction has led us to propose that a distinctive, bound, fatty layer, tentatively called the ‘F‐layer’, is involved in the mechanism. The polar surface generated by the treatment results in improvements in several properties, such as shrink resistance, printabi/ity and electrical conductivity, and an increase in the effectiveness of shrinkproofing polymers.