An Evaluation of the Effect of Different Yarn-spinning Systems on the Handle of Fabrics Part I: A Comparison of Ring-spun and Mule-spun Woollen Yarns

Cassidy, Tony; Weedall, Philip; Harwood, R. J.

doi:10.1080/00405008908658305

Cited by 7 publications

(7 citation statements)

References 1 publication

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“…The effects of different woollen yarn-spinning systems upon fabric handle detected by both objective and subjective assessments have shown that fabrics made from mule-spun yarn were less stiff and smoother than the fabrics made from ring-spun yarn (Cassidy, Weedall, & Harwood, 1989).…”

Section: Please Scroll Down For Articlementioning

confidence: 99%

Predicting comfort properties of knitted fabrics by assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter

Naebe

Lutz

McGregor

et al. 2013

Journal of The Textile Institute

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This study examined the feasibility of assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM) to predict the comfort properties of the corresponding single jersey-knitted fabrics. The optimum yarn arrangement to predict the comfort value of a corresponding control fabric was determined using nine wool and wool/nylon-blended yarns (mean fibre diameter range 16.5-24.9 μm) knitted into 34 different fabrics. Using a notched template, yarn winding frequencies of 1, 3, 6, 12, 25 and 50 parallel yarns were tested on the WCM. The best predictor of fabric WCM values was using 25 parallel yarns. Inclusion of knitting gauge and cover factor slightly improved predictions. This indicates that evaluation at the yarn stage would be a reliable predictor of knitted fabric comfort, and thus yarn testing would avoid the time and expense of fabric construction.

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Section: Please Scroll Down For Articlementioning

confidence: 99%

Predicting comfort properties of knitted fabrics by assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter

Naebe

Lutz

McGregor

et al. 2013

Journal of The Textile Institute

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“…Many researchers [ 1,2,3,4,6] have already reported that consumers are consistently able to detect differences ' Each number in the parentheses represents a different sample that varies in terms of cover factor or yarn thickness. Further, the samples will be cited in this paper in the form of C-l, C'-1, and so on.…”

Section: Sensory Measurementsmentioning

confidence: 98%

Sensory Measurements of the Main Mechanical Parameters of Knitted Fabrics

Alimaa

Matsuo

Nakajima

et al. 2000

Textile Research Journal

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Mechanical parameters such as bending rigidity, thickness, compressibility, and coefficient of friction are measured by a sensory method for a series of plain and rib weft knitted structures made from cashmere and polyester textured yarns. The values estimated by the sensory method are found to be in fairly good agreement with the values measured on the KES system. The results of our work indicate that by using a standard and controlling the handling manner, sensory assessments can be as successfully quantified as instrumental measurements. However, detectable differences in each mechanical parameter vary with the sensory assessment, depending on the property being considered. The sensory measurement of fabric thickness yields the most consistent and accurate results. Other parameters such as the bending rigidity, compressibility, and coefficient of friction are also reasonably estimated. In addition, the effectiveness of the sensory measurements is also discussed in terms of knit construction and fiber type.Fabric mechanical properties are tested in two waysinstrumental and sensory. Objectively, they can be tested by instrumental systems such as KES and FAST. The objective tests are accurate, precise, and repeatable, but they are not always used for routine quality control in industry and in trading mainly because of their high cost. Therefore, sensory methods are still widely used for routine textile testing and are currently drawing much greater attention, though they are unstable, uncertain, and lack quantitativeness. In his study, &dquo;Subjective Textile Testing&dquo;, Slater [9] emphasized that sensory tests in which a standard comparison is available are usually more likely to correlate well with objective measures. Further, he suggested that for better subjective testing, theoretically sound methods such as ranking or paired comparison should be used because they are reliable and provide a measure of a specific parameter or property.Among sensory tests, sensory colorimetry is a wellestablished method. The use of a few color standards has been proven to be effective in sensory colorimetry. Whence, the proper method for measuring the mechanical properties should follow the same direction as colorimetry, that is, use of a standard.Studies on the quantitative measurements of mechanical properties by the sensory method are almost nonexistent, except for the method proposed by Matsuo et al.[8] for woven fabrics. Published reports about knitted fabrics are also nearly nonexistent. Therefore, the objective of our work is to quantitatively measure the mechanical parameters of knitted fabrics using a sensory test and to verify its effectiveness. In addition, we believe it will be interesting to find which properties of knits have objectivity in tactile assessments and how accurate those assessments are. ExperimentalFour sets of fabric samples were knitted and used in this work-cashmere plain weft, cashmere rib, PET plain weft, and PET rib. The fabrics of each set provided variations in cover factors and yarn thick...

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“…15,18 The two-ply yarns made by CSIRO were made from the same wool top as the matching diameter singles yarns (Table 1, No. [1][2][3][4][5][6][7][8][9][10][11][12]. Four single-ply yarns (1/40 Nm; 500 Z tpm) made from ultrafine wool (13.8-15.0 mm) 22 were included in the study (Table 1, No.…”

Section: Experimental Details Materialsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…This engineered approach to manufacturing an ''ideal fabric'' has been used previously by other researchers to establish engineering design criteria for woven fabric quality. [1][2][3][4][5] In these cases fabric quality was defined by the handle of the fabric and it was found that many of the fiber, yarn and fabric variables studied influenced the handle and therefore quality of the fabric. 4 Other researchers have used the physical properties of fibers, the mechanical properties of yarns and the structure of the fabrics to predict the quality of fabrics, with the main focus on the comfort evaluation of fabrics.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…4 Other researchers have used the physical properties of fibers, the mechanical properties of yarns and the structure of the fabrics to predict the quality of fabrics, with the main focus on the comfort evaluation of fabrics. 3,5 These researchers demonstrated that various fiber, yarn and fabric characteristics influenced the assessment of fabric-evoked prickle as determined by a forearm wearer test. However, the interaction of these variables still made an engineered approach to knitted fabric design for comfort difficult and an approach that measured a yarn property that is more directly related to fabric comfort was required.…”

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confidence: 99%

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Effect of yarn winding tension on the Wool ComfortMeter value when testing yarns

Naebe

McGregor

Tester

2014

Textile Research Journal

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A new technique of predicting the comfort properties of single jersey knitted fabrics by using the Wool ComfortMeter to assess the corresponding yarns was previously investigated. In this study, the effect of the tension with which the yarn is wound on the Wool ComfortMeter yarn test plate was studied using 20 worsted, wool yarns comprising both one and two plies. The yarns covered a mean fiber diameter range from 13.8 to 24.3 µm. Three different levels of tension were applied to the yarn: 0 N (no applied tension); 0.245 N; and 0.735 N. The results, analyzed using multiple regression modeling, confirmed the significant effect of yarn tension on the Wool ComfortMeter value of the yarn, where yarn ply was also significant. The best predictor of the fabric Wool ComfortMeter value was using yarn winding with no applied tension. These results also showed that when the yarn Wool ComfortMeter values are available the mean fiber diameter provided little or no extra value in predicting fabric Wool ComfortMeter values. The models also detected significant effects from yarn count, yarn ply and fabric mass per unit area on fabric Wool ComfortMeter values.

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An Evaluation of the Effect of Different Yarn-spinning Systems on the Handle of Fabrics Part I: A Comparison of Ring-spun and Mule-spun Woollen Yarns

Cited by 7 publications

References 1 publication

Predicting comfort properties of knitted fabrics by assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter

Predicting comfort properties of knitted fabrics by assessing yarns with the Wool ComfortMeter

Sensory Measurements of the Main Mechanical Parameters of Knitted Fabrics

Effect of yarn winding tension on the Wool ComfortMeter value when testing yarns

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