The gorgeous and wonderful reality of Venice is beyond the fancy of the wildest dreamer. Opium couldn't build such a place, and enchantment couldn't shadow it forth in a vision." 1 This is Charles Dickens in a letter to his friend John Forster, dated November 12, 1844, and dispatched from Venice. The author had come to Venice in a state of eager anticipation, his curiosity whetted by historical as well as fictional accounts. He reminds his old friend of his own tendency to have his "over-expectation" get the better of him, but this, he says, can never be the case with Venice, "a thing you would shed tears to see." 2 But what is it that makes Venice so phantasmagoric, always exceeding its representation in words and pictures? Dickens lists the reasons as if in a trance: the contrast between the solid reality of the houses and the "fever-madness" of the water; the "insupportable" glory of the floating city; Venice's radiant daytime magic as well as its sprawling mental underground, livid with "judgement chambers, secret doors, deadly nooks . . . vast churches, and old tombs." "[A] new sensation, a new memory, a new mind came upon me. Venice is a bit of my brain from this time," Dickens speculates. 3 In Dickens's "An Italian Dream," the restive traveller (sleeping very little at night, by his own confession, and never during the day) uses the noun and verb forms of "dream" in a variety of ways, some of which contradict each other. The intrepid traveller's sensory overload of an "unbroken succession of novelties" is comparable, he says, to the recall of "half-formed dreams." 4 In a pattern we see repeated in several works of nineteenth-century fiction and poetry, dreaming is not only related to movement and travel but depicted as dynamic itself: the shudders of the coach make some recollections disappear from the mind of the half-asleep author, while others come rushing in. The black boat, which he boards after the coach ride, marks a "dreamy kind of track" 5 towards the mysterious lights shining like tapers on the dark waves.The Italian dream, referred to simply as "the Dream" is a fugue 6 state between sleep and wakefulness, activity and passivity, aesthetic reception