Alginate microparticles as carriers for the UV filter 2‐ethylhexyl 4‐methoxycinnamate: Influence on photostability

Duarte, Jaqueline Aparecida; Almeida, Isabel F.; Silva, Eliana S. Da; Faria, Joaquim L.; Lobo, José Manuel Sousa; Costa, Paulo; Scalia, Santo

doi:10.1111/ics.12578

Cited by 7 publications

(7 citation statements)

References 57 publications

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“…Several approaches could be used in order to ameliorate the photostability of photoprotective agents, such as the introduction of antioxidants [ 29 ], encapsulation [ 34 ], multiple association of UV filters [ 35 , 36 , 37 , 38 ], and the addition of quenching molecules [ 39 ] in the sunscreen’s formulation [ 40 ].…”

Section: Challengesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In addition, it was also noticed that trans -resveratrol combined with β-carotene ameliorates the photostability of the UV filters, in particular of avobenzone ( 11 ) [ 37 ]. Duarte et al (2019) tested the micro-encapsulation of EHMC ( 21 ) in alginate microparticles and studied its stabilisation effect in combination with vitamin E, confirming an improved capacity of stabilisation, as a result of the decrease in the photoisomerisation of the UV filter [ 34 ]. Additionally, gelatine micro- and nano-spheres improved skin compatibility, safety, and efficacy [ 41 , 42 , 43 ] and alginate microparticles influenced photostability, through the reduction of the EHMC’s ( 21 ) photoisomerisation [ 34 ].…”

Section: Challengesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Duarte et al (2019) tested the micro-encapsulation of EHMC ( 21 ) in alginate microparticles and studied its stabilisation effect in combination with vitamin E, confirming an improved capacity of stabilisation, as a result of the decrease in the photoisomerisation of the UV filter [ 34 ]. Additionally, gelatine micro- and nano-spheres improved skin compatibility, safety, and efficacy [ 41 , 42 , 43 ] and alginate microparticles influenced photostability, through the reduction of the EHMC’s ( 21 ) photoisomerisation [ 34 ]. Al-Rawashdeh et al (2010) reported the micro-encapsulation of commercial UV filters (oxybenzone ( 10 ), EHMC ( 21 ), and octocrylene ( 30 )) in hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrins system that successfully acted as photostabilisers [ 44 ].…”

Section: Challengesmentioning

confidence: 99%

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UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

et al. 2022

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The use of sunscreens is an established and recommended practice to protect skin from solar-induced damage. Around 30 UV filters can be used in sunscreen products in the European Union, which ought to follow the requirements of the regulation 1223/2009 to ensure their efficacy and safety for humans. Nevertheless, low photostability and putative toxicity for humans and environment have been reported for some UV filters. Particularly, the negative impact in marine organisms has recently raised concern on the scientific community. Therefore, it is important to develop new UV filters with improved safety profile and photostability. Over the last two decades, nearly 200 new compounds have revealed promising photoprotection properties. The explored compounds were obtained through different approaches, including exploration of natural sources, synthetic pathways, and nanotechnology. Almost 50 natural products and around 140 synthetic derivatives, such as benzimidazoles, benzotriazoles, hydroxycinnamic acids, xanthones, triazines, among others, have been studied aiming the discovery of novel, effective, and safer future photoprotective agents. Herein, we provide the reader with an overview about UV filters’ challenges and prospects, offering a forward-looking to the next-generation of UV filters.

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Section: Challengesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Challengesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Challengesmentioning

confidence: 99%

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UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

et al. 2022

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“…Textural attributes are sensitive to the concentrations of sodium alginate and calcium chloride, and both are essential to forming a gel [26]. The gelation properties of the alginates are also used for the encapsulation and thus protection of actives [27][28][29][30], UV filters [31] and essential oils [32].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Bio‐sourced polymers in cosmetic emulsions: a hidden potential of the alginates as thickeners and gelling agents

Terescenco

Benali

Canivet³

et al. 2021

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Objective The present work aims to investigate the impact of the alginates on the texture properties of cosmetic emulsions. For this purpose, five systems were selected: a classical emulsion without polymer and four emulsions containing polymers, as texture modifiers, at the level of 1%. Two different grades of alginates were chosen: one rich in mannuronic acid and one rich in guluronic acid. The objective was also to evaluate the potential of in‐situ gelation during formulation. The guluronic rich sample was gelled to evaluate the effect on the texture properties. Finally, alginates‐based systems were compared to the xanthan gum as a bio‐sourced polymer reference. Methods The sensory profile of the systems was established through a combination of prediction models and sensory analysis. The emulsion residual films obtained with natural polymers, Alginates and Xanthan Gum used as thickeners, as well as with the gelled version, were similar. However, the structural differences between polymers intervene during the characterisation of the sensory properties “before” and “during” application. A multi‐scale physicochemical analysis was used to explain these differences. Results Due to a controlled formulation process, the use of the polymers did not affect the microstructure of the emulsion which remained similar to the control one. The main impact of the polymers was observed on the macroscopic level: both alginates showed their unique textural signature, different from the classical Xanthan Gum. Due to weak structural differences, mechanical and textural properties were very close between the mannuronic rich and guluronic rich samples, when not gelled, compared to other emulsions. However, the molar mass and the mannuronic/guluronic acids ratio were proved to be crucial for the stretching and consistency properties, showing that this structural difference may have an impact when products are handled in traction and compression. Conclusion Meanwhile, the viscoelastic properties and the dynamic viscosity were greatly increased for the emulsion containing the gelled version of the alginate when compared to the classical polymers. The emulsion was also more consistent as proved by the textural analysis, pointing at better stability and suspension potential of the gelled emulsion versus the classical one containing the usual natural thickening agents.

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“…These reactive substances can interact with other components of the formulation when they come into direct contact with the skin and result in by-products without sunscreen effectiveness. 26,27 There is a substantial literature on measurement of photostability behaviour of isolated UV-filter and sunscreen formulations upon UV radiation employing several solar simulator apparatus. 4,15,[28][29][30][31][32][33] However, studies with artificial UV light source do not produce the level of sunscreen instability as does the natural sunlight.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Photostability of commercial sunscreens upon sunlight exposure

Prado

Bertges

Figueiredo³

et al. 2020

hu rev

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Introduction: The use of sunscreens is recommended to reduce skin damage and prevent skin cancer. However, evidence has shown that sunscreen can undergo degradation processes induced by ultraviolet (UV) radiation which can lead to reduction or loss of photoprotective capacity, generation of free radicals and toxic intermediates which react with skin structures generating biological damage. Objective: To evaluate the photostability of four sunscreen formulations with Sun Protection Factor (SPF) 30 added by different chemical and physical UV filters. Material and Methods: Each product was exposed to solar radiation from 10 a.m. to 15 p.m. (UV index: 6.0). The areas under the curves (AUC) of the absorbance spectrum of the formulations before and after radiation exposure were used to calculate the ratio between the AUC before and after the solar radiation (AUCI). Results: Only two formulations, which presented the AUCI higher than 0.8, were considered photostable. Despite having the same SPF 30, formulations showed different absorption spectrum in regions of UVA1, UVA2 and UVB and the photostability of the products tested varied considerably. Conclusion: The development of photostable formulations is critical because degradation products of UV filters can act as photo-oxidants. Furthermore, increased exposure to UV radiation due to the reduction of the photoprotective capacity of unstable products increases the risk of burns and skin cancer.

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Alginate microparticles as carriers for the UV filter 2‐ethylhexyl 4‐methoxycinnamate: Influence on photostability

Cited by 7 publications

References 57 publications

UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

Bio‐sourced polymers in cosmetic emulsions: a hidden potential of the alginates as thickeners and gelling agents

Photostability of commercial sunscreens upon sunlight exposure

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