Ação da água do mar artificial nas características da fibra capilar submetida a descoloração e coloração

Abstract

The hair, when exposed to aggressive factors, whether chemical (coloring, bleaching, straightening) or natural (sea water, pollution), these can damage hair's structure, and changes may occur in it characteristics, mechanical properties, color, etc. The objective of this work was to evaluate the damage caused by artificial sea water, in virgin hair fiber, bleached hair and colored hair with three different levels of blonde (8.0; 10.0 and 12.0) and for the latter, locks of straight virgin brown hair were used and bleached with 30 volumes of hydrogen peroxide and 20,0g of bleaching powder, to color immediately afterwards, with permanent dye, the locks with the 3 shades of blonde. As well as evaluating the mechanical properties (combability and gloss), color (colorimetric analysis) and surface (protein loss) after submission in artificial seawater. In order to simulate the beach environment inside the laboratory, the experiments had three stages in order to be able to accurately compare the locks: 1° without artificial sea water; 2° with the artificial sea water and 3° after washing the artificial sea water and conditioning, the latter was only repeated for combing and shine. The combing results showed that after the submission of artificial sea water, there was an increase in the force used among all hair's groups (virgin, bleached and colored), with the lock with blonde level 12.0 (T3) the one that had the highest strength used, with an increase of more than 70% when compared to the virgin's lock. The colorimetric evaluation showed little change in the color of the locks after submission in artificial sea water, with the lock with blonde level 8.0 being the one that showed the most noticeable change, with a DE value of 17.84% compared to lock level 8.0 (T1) without artificial sea water, while all the other groups had a color change of less than 4%. Regarding the gloss test, the values expressed after submission of sea water showed a reduction in the shine level of the locks that underwent the coloring process (T1, T2 and T3), especially the blonde lock level 12.0 (0.87 BNT) which had the greatest decrease in brightness (55.10%) when compared to it version without sea water. As for protein loss, all hair's groups had a loss of less than 10%, demonstrating that artificial sea water does not interfere with protein loss from the hair fiber. With this, it is possible to observe that the artificial sea water requiride an increase in the combing strenght of the hair, it's porous, fragile and lackluster, but not damaged, making it necessary to use of conditioning products can be enough to restore the hair fiber health.