Abrasion Kinetics of Wool and Blended Fabrics

Abstract

Professor Albert0 Barella passed a \~* a j 011 hfmdi 30, 2001. This paper is dedicated to Iiis rneniory. ABSTRACTThe abrasion resistance of different wool and blended fabrics is measured with the Martindale wear and abrasion tester, the abrasion kinetics is identified by the shape of the mass loss curve versus abrasion cycles up to yam breakage. A concave kinetic curve shows a low initial weight loss rate, which continues to increase throughout the process up to the end. A convex kinetic curve begins with a high initial weight loss rate, which continues to decrease throughout the process. The third kinetic curve shows an almost linear relationship between mass loss and abrasion cycles up to yarn breakage. Due to the long time required for the abrasion test to yarn breakage, a simplified method is used based on the determination of mass loss up to 5000 abrasion cycles. The initial mass loss rate and the mean value of this rate throughout the 5000 abrasion cycles (ix., the mean abrasion gradient) seem to be good estimates of the surface and structural abrasion degradation of the fabrics, and they show a strong relationship with the structural parameters of the fabrics.Fabric rubbing, scraping, and wearing against itself or against other abrasive surfaces produces abrasion in wear. As expected, abrasion first modifies the fabric surface and then affects the internal structure of the fabric, damaging it. Abrasion resistance can be measured according to different criteria. Probably the most widely used is the number of cycles until fabric breakage or a hole occurs, but it can also be measured by the weight loss of the fabric after a given number of abrasion cycles. Another accepted method is to determine the strength loss caused by a selected number of abrasion cycles or, more properly, a graph of abrasion cycles versus strength loss.Abrasion in wear is not easy to define, given the variations existing between wearers. Such variability should therefore be borne in mind when establishing a correlation between wearers and abrasion. Thus, some wearers can "wear out" a "good" fabric in a 100 hours, whereas other users will not wear out a "poor" fabric, even after 1000 hours. In accordance with the ASTM Standards, there are three methods based on different measuring principles: the rotary platform [3], the flexing trial [4] and abrasion over an inflated membrane [5]. The British Standards use the Martindale wear and abrasion tester [ 6 ] , and abrasion resistance can be measured according to two different principles. The first corresponds to the number of cycles needed to produce yarn breakage, and the second one is based on a calculation of the average rate of mass loss of the fabric. This methodology is based on a determination of the number of cycles needed to break two yarns by abfasion, and then the mass loss is measured in three stages of approximately 25,50, and 75% of the number of cycles needed to break the yarns. A graph of mass loss as a function of the number

Surface roughness properties of polyester woven fabrics after abrasion

“…At the beginning of abrasion, fabric starts to suffer a surface appearance change resulting from alteration of pile distribution and from fiber end cuts (Miguel, Lucas, Carvalho, Silva, & Manich, 2007). As expected, abrasion first modifies the fabric surface and then affects the internal structure of fabric damaging it (Manich, De Castellar, & Sauri, 2001).…”

Chitosan application on wool before enzymatic treatment

“…Abrasion resistance can be measured according to different criteria. 27 In this work, it has been measured by the weight loss of the fabric after 30,000 abrasion cycles (Fig. 5).…”

Analysis of Abrasion Characteristics in Textiles

“…Blending either nylon or polyester with wool and cotton is found to increase abrasion resistance at the expense of other properties (Saville, 1999). Higher wool rate increase the mass loss (Manich et al, 2001). Acrylic and modacrylic have a lower resistance than these fibres while wool, cotton and high modulus viscose have a moderate abrasion resistance.…”

“…Some of these parameters affect fabric surface whereas some of them has an influence on internal structure of the fabrics. For example fibre characteristics like wool ratio and fineness play a significant role in surface abrasion, while yarn and fabric characteristics like yarn linear density and interlacing coefficient are significantly related with structural abrasion (Manich et al, 2001).…”

“…The production method of yarn has also an influence on the abrasion resistance, such that carded fabric gives lower resistance than that of combed fabric (Manich et al, 2001). Even yarn structure, using long fibre and lower yarn hairiness are the reasons of that result.…”