A Study on Setting Darts and Split Lines of Upper Bodice Pattern on 3D Parametric Model dressed with Tight-fit Garment

Abstract

: The purpose of this study was to develop a plausible methodology based on experimental data how to set up darts and split lines on 3D parametric body dressed with tight-fit garment. The results were as following: Through the process of making convex hull, the concave parts were straightened to make a convex hull, especially in the center part of bust, under breast part and scapular part. To figure out the optimum positions of darts and split lines, the inflection points of curve ratio were searched along the horizontal polylines of waist and bust. This procedures produced reliable results with low deviation. Using Rapidform, CATIA and Unigraphics, six patches of bodice patterns were drawn and aligned. Paired t-test results showed the outline and area between 3D surface and 2D were not significantly different, meaning this method could be adaptable when flattening 3D surfaces. The amount of waist dart measured on the pattern showed that the highest portion was allocated on 2nd dart(back), followed by 1st dart(back), 1st dart(front), 2nd dart(front)/side dart, and center back dart. A series of findings suggested that curve ration inflection point could be used as a guide to set up darts and split line on 3D parametric model with low deviation.

Technical Design of Tight Upper Sportswear based on 3D Scanning Technology and Stretch Property of Knitted Fabric

“…3차원 스캔 데이터를 활용한 의복 원형 설계방법에 있어 인 체 표면의 적절한 절개 기준선을 설정하는 연구 (Choi et al, 2008;Park & Kim, 2010)가 수행되었으며, 체표평면전개도를 작성함에 있어 체표면을 간단한 도형 형태로 재구성하여 평면 에 배치하는 방식이 주로 시도되었으나 (Jeong et al, 2005;McCartney et al, 1999;Wang et al, 2002), 이 때, 인체 표 면의 굴곡에 따라 평면화할 때 오차가 발생하므로 3차원 인체 데이터 표면의 오목한 부분을 평면화하는 방법론이 제안 되었 다 (Park & Miyoshi, 2003). 이 후, 3차원 인체 스캔 데이터로 부터 다양한 의복 아이템을 설계하는 연구들이 진행되었으며 (Choi & Park, 2010;Sohn, 2008;), 스포츠웨어 설계에 있어 3차원 인체 스캔 데이터가 적용된 사례는 모터사이클 재킷 (Do, 2008)…”