A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part I: Cellular and molecular perspectives of skin ageing

Abstract

The ageing process is noticeable within all organs of the body and manifests itself visibly in the skin. Skin ageing is influenced by several factors including genetics, environmental exposure, hormonal changes and metabolic processes. Together these factors lead to cumulative alterations of skin structure, function and appearance. The functioning of the central nervous, immune, endocrine and cardiovascular systems, as well as the skin is also impaired with age. Chronologically, aged skin is thin, relatively flattened, dry and unblemished, with some loss of elasticity and age-related loss of architectural regularity. General atrophy of the extracellular matrix is reflected by a decrease in the number of fibroblasts. Reduced levels of collagen and elastin, with impaired organization are primarily because of decreased protein synthesis affecting types I and III collagen in the dermis, with an increased breakdown of extracellular matrix proteins. Oxidative stress is considered of primary importance in driving the ageing process. The original free radical theory of ageing purported that the molecular basis of ageing was derived from a lifetime accumulation of oxidative damage to cells resulting from excess reactive oxygen species (ROS) produced as a consequence of aerobic metabolism. Although the skin possesses extremely efficient anti-oxidant activities, during ageing, ROS levels rise and anti-oxidant activities decline. The ROS are necessary in multiple MAP kinase pathways and the induction of AP-1, in turn, up-regulates expression of matrix-metalloproteinases providing a plausible mechanism for the increased collagen degradation in aged human skin. Ré suméLe processus de vieillissement est perceptible sur tous les organes du corps et se manifeste clairement au niveau de la peau. Le vieillissement de la peau est influencée par plusieurs facteurs comme la génétique, l'exposition environnementale, les variations hormonales, les mécanismes métaboli-ques. Ensemble, ces différents facteurs conduisent à des altérations cumulatives de la structure de la peau, de sa fonction et de son apparence. Le fonctionnement du système nerveux central, immunitaire, endocrinien et cardio-vasculaire est, comme la peau, touché par l'âge. La peau âgée est fine, relativement relâchée, sèche et sans défaut avec

Cheminių šveitiklių poveikis, sprendžiant brandžios rankų odos problemas

“…Visi šie veiksniai sąlygoja liekamuosius odos struktūros, funkcijos ir išvaizdos pakitimus [1]. Išorinis rankų senėjimas, nulemtas fotosenėjimo, chemikalų naudojimo, rūkymo, apima dermos bei epiderminius sluoksnius ir są-lygoja negilių raukšlių atsiradimą, senatvinę keratozę, pigmenatacijos pokyčius [2,3].…”

“…Išorinis rankų senėjimas, nulemtas fotosenėjimo, chemikalų naudojimo, rūkymo, apima dermos bei epiderminius sluoksnius ir są-lygoja negilių raukšlių atsiradimą, senatvinę keratozę, pigmenatacijos pokyčius [2,3]. Su amžiumi atsiranda tokie spalviniai odos pakitimai, kaip geltonesnė rankų oda, dė-mės, hormoninių pakitimų sukelta melasma [1]. Ultravioletinių spindulių poveikis sąlygoja melanino, atsakingo už odos spalvą, suaktyvėjimą.…”

Anti-Aging Cosmetics Approaches and Components in Products

“…Kokusu nedeniyle kozmetikte tercih edilmeyen balık yağına alternatif olup cildi güneş ışınlarının yarattığı hasar ve bozunmadan koruduğu, kollajen ve elastin liflerinin yapımını sağladığı belirtilmektedir 65 . Misket üzümü ve yer fıstığında bulunan resveratrol kozmetik bileşeni olarak antioksidan ve cilt koruyucu olarak belirtilmekte 44 , diğer antioksidanlarla karşılaştırıldığı bir çalışmada UV ile artan fotoyaşlanmada matriks metalloproteinazı önemli ölçüde inhibe ederek yaşlanma karşıtı etki gösterdiği ve UVB ışınlarına diğerlerinden daha koruyucu olduğu görülmüştür 53,66,67 .Nelumbo nucifera, serbest radikallere karşı antioksidan etkisinden dolayı anti-aging krem terkibinde bulunan ve mavi lotus olarak bilinen bir bitkidir. Ayrıca in vivo çalışmalar ile obezitiye karşı da etkin olduğu gösterilmiştir 68,69,70 .…”

A novel L-ascorbic acid and peptide conjugate with increased stability and collagen biosynthesis

“…Skin aging is a complicated progress caused in part by the reduction of ECM components including laminin, fibronectin, collagen, etc (1). Twenty types of collagen are known to exist and are the major component of the ECM in humans.…”