A new predictive formula for inception of regular wave breaking

Liu, Yu; Niu, Xiaojing; Yu, Xing

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.05.004

Cited by 28 publications

(12 citation statements)

References 27 publications

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“…In 2011, the Liu, Niu, and Yu predictive formula was complicated by the inclusion of the breaker height on both sides of the relationship. Additionally, as shown in Figure 13H, the predictive ability of the Liu, Niu, and Yu (2011) formula is inferior to previously published formulas.…”

Section: Solitary Wavementioning

confidence: 60%

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Remote Sensing of Irregular Breaking Wave Parameters in Field Conditions

Robertson

Hall

Nistor

et al. 2015

Journal of Coastal Research

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Robertson, B.; Hall, K.; Nistor, I.; Zytner, R., and Storlazzi, C., 2015. Remote sensing of irregular breaking wave parameters in field conditions. Journal of Coastal Research, 31(2), 348-363. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.The analysis of wave breaking in shallow water has been ongoing for almost 150 years. Numerous research papers have been published that approximate both the local conditions and geometric characteristics of breaking waves. However, much of this knowledge is based on laboratory results or limited field investigations because traditional methods of extracting breaking wave measurements from the surfzone are expensive, dangerous, and feature low-resolution data. Unfortunately, laboratory studies are prone to scaling and friction effects that introduce unwanted variability in the data. This study presents a novel, safe, and low-cost method of extracting relevant breaking-wave properties from irregular waves in the surfzone, using optical and in situ measurement systems. Published, contradictory breakingwater depth definitions are compared, and the water depth at the wave-trough depth, corrected for optical offsets using a still-water correction of one-third of the wave height, is found to exhibit the least variability. A new, effective seafloorslope definition, based on individual, breaking wavelength-to-depth ratios, was found to increase predictive ability over previously variable seafloor slope extraction methods. Collected field data are compared against established breakingwave height formulas with the general exponential form consistently finding the best correlation. Finally, an optimized breaking-wave height-prediction method finds a root mean square relative error of just 1.672% within the ranges of the measured data set. Irregular waves investigated on an individual wave basis are shown to follow regular wave-breaker height and depth prediction methods. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS:Breaker height, surf similarity number, breaker index, seafloor slope optimization, breaker depth.

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Section: Solitary Wavementioning

confidence: 60%

“…(G)Goda (2010), (H)Liu, Niu, and Yu (2011), (I)Seyama and Kimura (1988), (J)Kamphuis (1991). Within each figure, diamonds indicate measured values, crosses represent calculated values, and the solid trend line indicates linear regression fit.…”

mentioning

confidence: 98%

Remote Sensing of Irregular Breaking Wave Parameters in Field Conditions

Robertson

Hall

Nistor

et al. 2015

Journal of Coastal Research

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“…In this equation, s is the beach slope, Hs the mean deepwater significant wave height (extracted from the CAWCR dataset) and L 0 is the mean deepwater wave length. For this study, the slope of beaches s was calculated averaging the slope of beaches reported in a global compilation by Liu et al [10], resulting in an average slope of 0.08. In the software, this value is only used if no site-specific value for the beach slope is entered.…”

Section: Calculation Of Limits Determining the Indicative Rangementioning

confidence: 99%

“…First, the beach slope used in IMCalc (Eqs. 5 and 7) was set to a globally uniform value (0.08), representing the average value of a global compilation of beach slopes reported by Liu et al [10]. This value would need to be significantly higher (> 0.5) in order to have a major effect on the resulting limit elevations.…”

Section: Limitations Of the Imcalc Appmentioning

confidence: 99%

The indicative meaning calculator – quantification of paleo sea-level relationships by using global wave and tide datasets

Lorscheid

2019

Open geospatial data, softw. stand.

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The study of past sea levels relies largely on the interpretation and quantification of sea-level indicators. These are fossil coastal landforms, bioconstructions or deposits that have a quantifiable relation to paleo sea level (called the indicative meaning) and can be assigned an age of formation. The calculation of the indicative meaning should always rely on the quantitative comparison between the paleo sea-level indicator and the elevational range of the same feature in the modern environment with respect to modern sea level. This may prove difficult to quantify when no site-specific data is available, for example when compiling databases with large geographic scope. In this paper, we provide a method to quantify the indicative meaning of sea-level indicators using simple hydro- and morphodynamic equations with inputs from global wave and tide datasets. We apply and compare our approach exemplary to data published in a relative sea-level database on the Marine Isotope Stage 5e highstand and show how this approach can help in estimating the indicative meaning if no site-specific data on the modern analog is available. For the easier usability of the described approach in this paper, we also present a stand-alone Java-app (IMCalc), which can be used as a calculator of the indicative meaning.

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“…Detailed reviews of the existing researches have been made by Galvin (1972), Sawaragi (1973), Rattanapitikon et al (2003), Camenen and Larson (2007), and Goda (2010). Liu et al (2011) categorized the breaking wave formulas into four groups based on their formation types.…”

Section: = ℎmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Influence of an Existing Vertical Structure on the Inception of Wave Breaking Point

Kisacik

Troch

2014

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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Vertical breakwaters and sea walls are frequently used structures to protect ports from sea actions like waves and high water levels. Vertical structures expose slowly-acting pulsating loads or more intense but shorter lasting impulsive loads. Prediction methods for wave loads to calculate hydraulic responses of these structures generally use the incident significant wave height, often defined in the water depth at the seaward toe of the structure (ℎ). Where, wave breaking has significant influence on design wave heights. In addition, due to the result of the reflection or/and turbulence left from preceding waves, the inception of wave breaking point is different than the point in the case without vertical structures. Therefore, the hydraulic performance of load tests on vertical structures should be known. The reflection coefficients , measured at the toe of the foreshore, are categorized based on the breaker shapes. According to the results, values between, 0.55 − 0.80, and 0.45 − 0.70 are found for breaker types BWSAT (breaking with small air trap) and BWLAT (breaking with large trap) respectively. The margin between non-braking and breaking waves is considered as the inception point of breaking. This point is compared with the breaking point for the measurements without the scaled model to determine the influence of the scaled model on the inception point of the wave breaking. It is seen that the existence of the model postpones the inception of wave breaking for some waves which would normally break without the presence of the scaled model. The main objective of the present research is to improve methods to predict wave behaviour and breaker heights for increasing safety of structures constructed in the surf zone. In this particular research, small scale model tests were carried out to fulfill the above goals.

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A new predictive formula for inception of regular wave breaking

Cited by 28 publications

References 27 publications

Remote Sensing of Irregular Breaking Wave Parameters in Field Conditions

Remote Sensing of Irregular Breaking Wave Parameters in Field Conditions

The indicative meaning calculator – quantification of paleo sea-level relationships by using global wave and tide datasets

The Influence of an Existing Vertical Structure on the Inception of Wave Breaking Point

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