A multi-analytical techniques based approach to study the colorful clothes and accessories from mummies of Eastern Central Asia

Kramell, Annemarie E.; Wertmann, Patrick; Hosner, Dominic; Kluge, Ralph; Oehler, Florian; Wunderlich, Christian‐Heinrich; Tarasov, Pavel E.; Wagner, Mayke; Csük, René

doi:10.1016/j.jasrep.2016.11.021

Cited by 7 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 29 publications

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“…Identification of these components in complex mixtures requires sensitive and selective analytical techniques. Liquid chromatography coupled with spectrophotometric and mass-spectrometric detectors (LC-UV-Vis-MS) has been proven to be a useful tool for analysing works of art, especially those containing natural organic dyestuffs [ 19 , 20 , 21 , 22 ].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Chromatographic and Spectroscopic Identification and Recognition of Natural Dyes, Uncommon Dyestuff Components, and Mordants: Case Study of a 16th Century Carpet with Chintamani Motifs

Otłowska

Ślebioda²,

Kot‐Wasik

et al. 2018

Molecules

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A multi-tool analytical practice was used for the characterisation of a 16th century carpet manufactured in Cairo. A mild extraction method with hydrofluoric acid has been evaluated in order to isolate intact flavonoids and their glycosides, anthraquinones, tannins, and indigoids from fibre samples. High-performance liquid chromatography coupled to spectroscopic and mass spectrometric detectors was used for the identification of possible marker compounds with special attention paid to natural dyes present in the historical samples. Weld, young fustic, and soluble redwood dye were identified as the dye sources in yellow thread samples. Based on the developed method, it was possible to establish that red fibres were coloured with lac dye, whereas green fibre shades were obtained with indigo and weld. Tannin-containing plant material in combination with indigo and weld were used to obtain the brown hue of the thread. Hyphenation of high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (QTOF MS) and triple-quadrupole mass spectrometry (QqQ MS) enabled us to recognise four uncommon and thus-far unknown dye components that were also found in the historical samples. These compounds probably represent a unique fingerprint of dyed threads manufactured in a Turkish workshop. Scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray detector (SEM-EDS) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) were used for the identification and characterisation of substrates and mordants present in the historical carpet. Carbon and oxygen were detected in large quantities as a part of the wool protein. The presence of aluminium, iron, and calcium indicated their usage as mordants. Trace amounts of copper, silica, and magnesium might originate from the contaminants. FT-IR analysis showed bands characteristic for woollen fibres and SEM micrographs defined the structure of the wool.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Chromatographic and Spectroscopic Identification and Recognition of Natural Dyes, Uncommon Dyestuff Components, and Mordants: Case Study of a 16th Century Carpet with Chintamani Motifs

Otłowska

Ślebioda²,

Kot‐Wasik

et al. 2018

Molecules

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“…5). This approximately 2,000 years old woolen fragment (sample ID: 95MNIM5-43B) belongs to a decorative element of a shirt and consists of blue and uncolored twisted yarns arranged in a striped pattern 40 . Mass peaks at m/z 262.1 and 263.1 were detected with assistance of Universal MALDI matrix in positive mode on the blue regions and reveal the use of the blue colorant indigo for textile dyeing.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Mapping Natural Dyes in Archeological Textiles by Imaging Mass Spectrometry

Kramell

García‐Altares

Pötsch

et al. 2019

Sci Rep

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Organic dyes of animal and plant origin have often been used by our ancestors to create textiles with polychromic ornamental patterns, and dyestuff analyses reveal how ancient cultures used these natural colorants. Mass spectrometry can characterize ancient colorants from these textiles, but its combination with separation techniques such as liquid chromatography requires the destruction of the pattern to extract organic dyes from the fabrics. In this study we applied mass spectrometry imaging (MS imaging) on colorful patterned textiles to show the spatial distribution of indigo-type and anthraquinone-type dyes. We evaluated different sample preparation techniques for matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization time-of-flight (MALDI-TOF)-MS imaging, e.g. the production of imprints in TLC (thin layer chromatography) aluminum sheets and the embedding of the material in Technovit7100 to produce thin sections. Our protocol enabled the detection of indigo-type dyes directly on a historic textile of more than 2,000 years old embedded in Technovit7100. This is the first-time application of MALDI-TOF-MS imaging to map different organic dyestuffs on archeological remains.

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“…physcion (molecular formula: C 16 H 12 O 5 ) or mollugin (molecular formula: C 17 H 16 O 4 ), detected in some Rubia species43,44 can be excluded. The present compound, most probably an until now unknown isomer of munjistin (1,3dihydroxyanthraquinone-2-carboxylic acid), has been already detected by LC-ESI-MS/MS in several samplesincluding samples E and Ffrom the nding site of Niya (archaeological site in Xinjiang, China) 45. Dihydroxyanthraquinones, trihydroxyanthraquinones and dihydroxy-methyl-anthraquinones are characteristic dyes from plants of the Rubiaceae family.…”

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confidence: 75%

Fast direct detection of natural dyes in historic and prehistoric textiles by flowprobe™-ESI-HRMS

et al. 2017

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Dyestuff analyses were performed directly from the surface of different bluish and reddish colored historic textile samples by flowprobe™-electrospray ionization-high-resolution mass spectrometry (flowprobe™-ESI-HRMS). This real-time in situ microextraction method allowed rapid, reliable and minimal-destructive analysis without extra and time-consuming sample preparation and required only a minimum amount of valuable archaeological material. As demonstrated for indigo-type and anthraquinone dyes this technique is useful for the analysis of various types of textiles regardless of their fiber matrix, appearance or handicraft and is also suitable for investigating fragile archeological fibers. Thus, flowprobe™-ESI-HRMS is a promising analytical tool for characterizing organic colorants in objects of archaeological interest.

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A multi-analytical techniques based approach to study the colorful clothes and accessories from mummies of Eastern Central Asia

Cited by 7 publications

References 29 publications

Chromatographic and Spectroscopic Identification and Recognition of Natural Dyes, Uncommon Dyestuff Components, and Mordants: Case Study of a 16th Century Carpet with Chintamani Motifs

Chromatographic and Spectroscopic Identification and Recognition of Natural Dyes, Uncommon Dyestuff Components, and Mordants: Case Study of a 16th Century Carpet with Chintamani Motifs

Mapping Natural Dyes in Archeological Textiles by Imaging Mass Spectrometry

Fast direct detection of natural dyes in historic and prehistoric textiles by flowprobe™-ESI-HRMS

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