A Model for Blocking of Periodic Waves

Suastika, I Ketut; Battjes, J.A.

doi:10.1142/s0578563409001953

Cited by 10 publications

(6 citation statements)

References 19 publications

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“…The limiting wave steepness predicted by the model, ak = 0.30, is considerably smaller than that for a Stokes wave in deep water without current blocking, i.e., ak = 0.44. It is, however, consistent with the breaking onset criterion used by Chawla and Kirby () and Suastika and Battjes () to quantify the energy dissipation in their bore models for current‐induced breaking. The limiting skewness for current‐induced breaker, however, is found to show less departure from that for a Stokes wave, which is consistent with Ma et al's () finding from their study of opposing current effect on a modulated wave group.…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 85%

“…It appears that the steepening effect of the opposing current decreases considerably the limiting steepness. While some RANS‐VOF models underpredict the wave height at the breaking onset, the present model slightly overpredicts the wave height (see model‐data comparisons in Figure b) for the reasons described in section 3.4. The predicted limiting wave steepness, ak = 0.3, for current‐induced wave breaking is consistent with the parameterizations proposed by Chawla and Kirby () and Suastika and Battjes () based on experiments. Both authors adopted ak = 0.3 to indicate the breaking onset in their empirical bulk dissipation formulas for current‐limited wave breaking.…”

Section: Characteristics Of Current‐induced Wave Breakingsupporting

confidence: 87%

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Characteristics of Wave Breaking and Blocking by Spatially Varying Opposing Currents

Chen

Zou

2018

JGR Oceans

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A Reynolds‐Averaged Navier‐Stokes (RANS) flow solver with a Volume of Fluid (VOF) surface capturing scheme is used to investigate wave breaking and blocking due to strong opposing currents. The Shear Stress Transport (SST) k−ω model is modified in order to capture the turbulence properly. The unique capability of the RANS‐VOF model allows us to reveal the distinct features of current‐induced wave breaking and blocking. The limiting wave steepness at breaking onset is reduced considerably by the opposing current from the Stokes' limit for stationary waves. Although the wave height grows faster before breaking under a more rapidly varying current, the maximum height at the breaking onset remains almost the same. The locations of incipient breaking are slightly shifted downstream/upwave by the increased current gradient. It was found that the wave radiation stress alters the mean water level by competing with the pressure gradient arising from the current‐induced surface tilting. The wave set‐down and set‐up is more pronounced for more intensive breakers occurring under a larger incident wave and current gradient. Our model results indicate an undertow‐like change to the current profile due to wave breaking. The turbulence and vorticity generated by the current‐induced breaking wave persist and are advected downstream and interact with those generated by the following wave and current.

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Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 85%

Section: Characteristics Of Current‐induced Wave Breakingsupporting

confidence: 87%

Characteristics of Wave Breaking and Blocking by Spatially Varying Opposing Currents

Chen

Zou

2018

JGR Oceans

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“…When a gravity wave meets a counter-current, the incident wavelength diminishes and the wave height increases [12][13][14][17][18][19][20][21][22][23][24][25][26]. According to the ray theory, the wave amplitude would diverge when blocking occurs.…”

Section: Preliminariesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Some Aspects of Dispersive Horizons: Lessons from Surface Waves

Chaline¹,

Jannes²,

Maïssa³

et al. 2013

Lecture Notes in Physics

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“…The perforated bottom of this inner flume allowed withdrawal of discharge into the adjacent outer half of the flume, which acted as a sump for the suction pumps. However, the presence of this false bottom had the disadvantage of introducing an additional source of dissipation, which was accounted for using an empirical percolation dissipation term (see Suastika 2004;Suastika and Battjes 2009). A further term for dissipation due to side wall friction proposed by these authors was not included here.…”

Section: Data Setsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Improved Modelling of Wave-Current Interaction in Swan

Westhuysen

2011

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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Recent hindcast studies in the Amelander Zeegat tidal inlet in the Dutch Wadden Sea have shown the significant influence of currents on the prediction of wave fields by the spectral wave model SWAN. In following current, observations are typically well reproduced, but under strong opposing current, wave heights are significantly overestimated. Ris and Holthuijsen (1996) propose that such overestimations are due to insufficient steepness dissipation of waves on an opposing current gradient. The present paper presents a new formulation for the enhanced dissipation of waves on a counter current gradient which is scaled with the degree of Doppler shifting, and hence steepness increase, due to the current. This expression contains one additional unknown parameter, which is calibrated using laboratory observations. This formulation is suitable for both mature wave fields and young wind sea conditions. Application of this enhanced dissipation term to a data set of Amelander Zeegat field cases shows an improvement for opposing current situations in the tidal channel. For following current, no significant deterioration of results is found. In particular, the results for the young wind sea on the tidal flats are not significantly affected, unlike with the Ris and Holthuijsen (1996) expression.

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A Model for Blocking of Periodic Waves

Cited by 10 publications

References 19 publications

Characteristics of Wave Breaking and Blocking by Spatially Varying Opposing Currents

Characteristics of Wave Breaking and Blocking by Spatially Varying Opposing Currents

Some Aspects of Dispersive Horizons: Lessons from Surface Waves

Improved Modelling of Wave-Current Interaction in Swan

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