A laboratory study of the effect of varying beach slopes on bore-driven swash hydrodynamics

Deng, Bin; Zhang, Wen; Yu, Yang; Jiang, Changbo

doi:10.3389/fmars.2022.956379

Cited by 3 publications

(3 citation statements)

References 62 publications

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“…In this study, the ECWLs at the 98th percentile have the wave run-up contributing as much as 70% to them (see Figure 8). In general, in the swash zone, single waves propagate beyond the slope of the beach and shoreline [68,69]. This area experiences significant erosion and wave overtopping during storms, as seen in Figure 10C.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Coastal Flooding Caused by Extreme Coastal Water Level at the World Heritage Historic Keta City (Ghana, West Africa)

Brempong

Almar

Angnuureng

et al. 2023

JMSE

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Like low-lying sandy coasts around the world, the Ghanaian coast is experiencing increasingly frequent coastal flooding due to climate change, putting important socioeconomic infrastructure and people at risk. Our study assesses the major factors contributing to extreme coastal water levels (ECWLs) from 1994 to 2015. ECWLs are categorized into low, moderate, and severe levels corresponding to the 30th, 60th, and 98th percentiles, respectively. Using these three levels over the Pleiades satellite-derived digital elevation model topography, potential flood extent zones are mapped. ECWLs have the potential to flood more than 40% of the study area, including socioeconomically important sites such as tourist beach resorts, Cape St. Paul lighthouse, and Fort Prinzenstein. In this study, all coastal flooding events recorded by the municipality of Keta fall within the 98th percentile category. Our results show a gradual increase in the frequency of flooding over the years. Flooding events are caused by a compound effect of the tide, sea level anomaly, waves, and atmospheric conditions. Finally, while wave run-up is the major contributor to coastal flooding, the tide is the one varying most, which facilitates a simple early warning system based on waves and tide but adds uncertainty and complicates long-term predictability.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Coastal Flooding Caused by Extreme Coastal Water Level at the World Heritage Historic Keta City (Ghana, West Africa)

Brempong

Almar

Angnuureng

et al. 2023

JMSE

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“…A secondary way in which beach nourishment or dune restoration alters the sediment transport pattern in the swash zone is by changing the slope of the beach. This change alters the parabolic run-up excursion, which changes the number and type of run-up/run-down interactions, and therefore the sediment transport behaviour of each swash event [44,45].…”

Section: Future Management Strategiesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effectiveness of Dune Reconstruction and Beach Nourishment to Mitigate Coastal Erosion of the Ebro Delta (Spain)

Costa,

Marino,

Cáceres

et al. 2023

JMSE

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Coastal areas facing increasing erosion are resorting to sand displacement strategies to mitigate the erosive impact, which is exacerbated by climate change. In the face of climate change, coastal managers are more frequently resorting to sand displacement strategies to recover eroding coastlines. These vulnerable coastal zones require innovative approaches to minimize the need for frequent sand replenishment, extend their effectiveness and lower their maintenance expenses. This study undertakes a comparison of four primary nourishment strategies—a conventional uniform nourishment technique and the placement of a single sand dune evaluated at three different positions—in contrast to a scenario where no intervention is carried out. The investigation employs the XBeach numerical model to assess the outcomes of these diverse strategies under both low- and high-energetic storm conditions. The case study is a degraded coastal beach in the Ebro Delta (Spain). The results reveal a significant decrease in erosion when the dune is positioned closest to the shoreline. However, this erosion mitigation effect diminishes as the dune is situated further inland. Conversely, the sand nourishment measure exhibits minimal fluctuations in the volume of eroded sand when compared to the scenario with no intervention.

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“…A significant portion of plastic waste is subjected to wave-driven processes, influencing the dispersal and accumulation of microplastics [15][16][17][18]. The dynamics of waves, coupled with particle buoyancy and coastal topography, play a crucial role in directing microplastics either onshore or offshore [19]. Moreover, wave-induced mass transport, known as Stokes drift, intensifies near coastlines [20][21][22], and wave-induced turbulence from breaking waves can alter microplastic distribution beneath the surface [23,24].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

CFD Analysis of Microplastic Transport over the Slopes

Quyen,

Park,

Lee

et al. 2024

JMSE

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Microplastics, ubiquitous in our environment, are significantly impacted by the hydrodynamic conditions around them. This study utilizes CFD to explore how various breaker types influence the dispersion and accumulation of microplastics in nearshore areas. A special focus is given to the impact of wave dynamics and particle size, particularly on buoyant microplastics in spilling breakers. It was discovered that spilling breakers, common on gently sloping seabeds, encourage broad dispersion of microplastics, notably for smaller-sized particles. Plunging breakers exhibit a similar pattern but with less dispersion and an initial forward movement of neutral and heavy particles. Surging breakers feature minimal dispersion and a distinct oscillatory motion. It has been observed that medium-sized particles with a 1 mm diameter in this work exhibit the most substantial forward movement, likely due to an optimal balance between inertia and viscosity, enabling an effective response to wave momentum. Larger particles, influenced mainly by inertia, tend to show less dispersion and advection. Meanwhile, smaller particles, more affected by viscosity, demonstrate greater dispersion, interacting extensively with wave-induced turbulence. This study reveals the significance of inertia in the behavior of microplastics over slopes, emphasizing the importance of considering inertial effects for precise modeling of microplastic movement in nearshore areas.

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A laboratory study of the effect of varying beach slopes on bore-driven swash hydrodynamics

Cited by 3 publications

References 62 publications

Coastal Flooding Caused by Extreme Coastal Water Level at the World Heritage Historic Keta City (Ghana, West Africa)

Coastal Flooding Caused by Extreme Coastal Water Level at the World Heritage Historic Keta City (Ghana, West Africa)

Effectiveness of Dune Reconstruction and Beach Nourishment to Mitigate Coastal Erosion of the Ebro Delta (Spain)

CFD Analysis of Microplastic Transport over the Slopes

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